Malaysia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 486

MIRI
MIRI is a booming oil town with a
significant expat community and a strong
Chinese character. For tourists, it's the
main departure point for independent
and organized trips into Gunung Mulu
National Park (see p.490), and more local
national parks, such as the Niah Caves
and Lambir Hills National Park, and the
route northeast to Brunei and Sabah.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Miri's old town around Jalan China in
the west of town has a cluster of cafés,
shops and a few cheap hotels. he fish
market occupies the top of Jalan China,
along with the Tua Pek Kong Chinese
Temple, dedicated to a deity well loved
by overseas Chinese. Jalan Brooke is the
main artery through town, with a couple
of markets selling fresh fruit and veg,
pigs' heads and more. he wide road
running east from here and parallel to the
river, Jalan Bendahara , is the simplest
route into the new town area. Directly
south of the local bus station is the
Padang, on whose border lies Tamu
Muhibbah (daily 6am-4pm), the town's
produce market. here's a better market
on Lutong Rd, 3km from the centre
(hurs-Sat 5-10pm), where the Orang
Ulu come to sell crafts and jungle
produce. Take bus #1, #1A, #31, #42
or #62.
For a great view of Miri, you can take
a taxi up Canada Hill . At the top you'll
find a lively bar with an outdoor terrace,
the well-designed Petroleum Museum
(daily 9am-5pm; free), detailing the
history of oil in Malaysia, and the Grand
Old Lady - the remnants of the 1910
Shell oil well - the first in the region.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By plane The airport ( W miriairport.com) is 8km west of
the town centre; bus #28 (every 90min between 5.45am
and 6.40pm; RM3) runs from outside the terminal to the
bus station (look for the 'Bas' sign; a taxi costs RM20.
Between them, Malaysia Airlines and AirAsia cover major
destinations such as KL, KK, Kuching and Sibu, while
MASwings serves smaller destinations such as Mulu (for
Gunung Mulu National Park) and Bario, the latter with
eight-person Twin Otters (10km luggage maximum);
flights to Bario are very weather-dependent.

headquarters and cuts first east then
south across a peat swamp forest, where
you can see wild orchids, mushrooms and
pandani. he trail crosses Sungai Subis
and then follows its south bank to its
confluence with Sungai Niah, from where
you'll have to hail a passing boat to cross
over to Batu Niah.
he more spectacular trail to Bukit
Kasut starts at the confluence of these
two rivers. After crossing the Niah River,
the clearly marked trail winds through
freshwater swamp forest, round the
foothills of Bukit Kasut and up to the
summit - a hard one-hour slog, at the
end of which there's a view both of
the forest canopy and Batu Niah.

6

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus In Miri take bus #33A to the Pujut Bus Terminal,
and then any express bus heading towards Bintulu, Sibu or
Sarikei. Ask to get off at Niah Junction (2hr; RM15), where
taxis wait to take you to park headquarters (30min;
RM30-40), 15km away. From Bintulu bus station there are
several buses to Batu Niah (3hr; RM15). The park o ce is
3km from Batu Niah, either a taxi ride from the bus station
(RM30), or a 30min stroll. The easiest way to reach the
caves from Miri is by transfer (RM60) from the Dillenia
Guesthouse (see p.490).
By taxi Taxis from Miri (1hr 20min) cost around RM150
one-way. A taxi from Bintulu (1hr 40min) costs around
RM160.

INFORMATION
Park Headquarters Niah National Park HQ ( T 085
737454) is the place to register on arrival. The trails are
well signposted.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
The park can be visited as a day-trip, but stay overnight if
you want to see the “changing of the guard” - swiftlets
returning to the cave at sunset and bats flying out (notify
park HQ first). Accommodation at the park HQ should be
booked in advance through the National Park Booking
O ce ( T 085 434184).
Camping There is a campsite with enough pitches for
thirty tents. RM7 per person
Canteen There's a café at the park which serves rice and
noodle dishes. Mains from RM8. Daily 9am-6pm.
Forrest Hostel Four simple rooms, each with fo ur beds
and attached bathrooms. Bedding provided. RM45
Forrest Lodge Seven chalets, some with fan, some with
a/c, consisting of two en-suite roo ms wit h two single
beds/room. Bedding provided. From RM115