Malaysia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 483

VISITING A LONGHOUSE FROM KAPIT AND BELAGA
The tourist o ce in Sibu keeps a list of recommended local guides in Sarawak's interior. In
Kapit , the only licensed guide is Alice Chua ( T 019 8593126, E [e-mail]), but her
tours tend to be rather expensive and receive mixed reviews. There are plenty of unlicensed
guides who are perfectly knowledgeable, but finding one can be pot luck. It's best to talk to
other travellers and local accommodation owners to see whom they recommend. In Belaga ,
Belaga Hotel can contact guides for upriver longhouse visits, and local guide Daniel Levoh from
Daniel Levoh's Guesthouse has lots of contacts in the area. Try also Hasbie ( T 013 8429767) from
Belaga B&B or Hamdani Louis ( T 019 8865770), both recommended by Sarawak Tourism. Tour
charges tend to be from around RM85 per person for day-trips and around RM125 for
overnight stays in a longhouse.
TRANSPORT & ARRIVAL
It's possible to visit longhouses on your own. In Kapit, some are reachable by minibus
that departs from Kapit Town Square, while for others you'll have to negotiate a longboat
price at the Jeti RC Kubu - the jetty facing Fort Sylvia. In Belaga, it's also possible to get a
ride on a boat . Independent travellers are typically charged around RM20 for a day visit to
a longhouse or RM60 for an overnight stay; bring your own food. Speak to the headman
first (some may expect a tip) and take useful gifts. It's best to speak some Malay as few
longhouses have English-speakers, and unless you're coming with a guide/interpreter,
there may not be much in the way of activities, as the residents will be busy with their
daily lives.

6

New Rajang Inn 104 Jln Teo Chow Beng T 084
796600. This is a real bargain with tiled en-suite a/c
rooms with TV, fridge , wi-fi and a Bible for your spiritual
needs. Double RM85

places for a more authentic longhouse
visit. Independent travel to the
longhouses depends on a certain amount
of luck and, ultimately, chatting to
someone who will invite you over - try
asking around on the boat from Kapit or
at one of the cafés, where you're sure to
find someone who can help, or else try
one of the recommended local guides
(see box above). here are also various
treks that take you further into the
jungle, past the Bakun Dam area and into
the villages beyond; again, a guide is a
very good idea.

EATING
At the covered market off Jln Penghulu Nyanggau there
are a dozen stalls serving Chinese, Malay and Dyak dishes
(breakfast and lunch only).
Night market Between Jln Teo Chow Beng and Jln
Penghulu Berjaya. Mostly Malay dishes, such as satay and
nasi goreng ; also curry and a few Dyak dishes. Mains from
RM4. Daily 5-11pm.
Public Café Across the street from the night market,
this spot serves the likes of squid sambal and mee hoon
with jungle fern (mains from RM7). Picture menu. Daily:
breakfast and lunch only.
Soon Kit Café 13 Jln Tan Sit Liong. Informal place that's
locally famous for its chicken rice (RM5) and laksa (RM4).
Daily 6am-5pm.

LONGHOUSES AROUND
BELAGA
These longhouses are in order of distance
from Belaga.
Dong Daah Easily visited Kayan
longhouse that's a 10min boat ride
upstream.
Lirong Amo Kayan longhouse that's
reachable by a 30min walk.
Long Liten Traditional Kejaman
longhouse that's around 30min upriver.
Sekapan Pajang Traditional Sekapan
longhouse 30min downriver.
Sihan Penan settlement a two-hour walk
from the opposite bank of the river.

Belaga
Further up the Batang Rajang is BELAGA ,
a small, remote village with a laidback
atmosphere, filled with crowing roosters
and backed by mist-covered mountains.
here is one notoriously unreliable ATM,
so bring all the cash you need with you.
he rivers around Belaga have a good
few Kayan, Kenyah and Orang Ulu
longhouses , making this one of the better