Malaysia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 480

the park is very popular. At the park
headquarters, you can camp (RM5), stay
in a four-bed dorm (RM15.90 per person
or RM42 per room) or in one of the
lodges (RM50 for a room with shared
bathroom; RM106 for a three-bed room
with private bathroom or a two-room
chalet for RM159), all of which provide
bed linen but no cooking facilities. Some
hikers prefer to camp on the trails and
others have been known to sling a
hammock up on the beach somewhere;
you must inform the park o ce of your
plans. here's a good cafeteria at
headquarters serving rice and noodle
dishes (buffet meal RM9) and a
provisions shop.

way, in the network of streets between
Jalan Market, Jalan Channel and Jalan
Central, is Chinatown . he central artery,
Jalan Market , runs from Jalan Pulau
beside the temple, and forms the hub of
possibly the most vibrant and exotic pasar
malam (night market) in Sarawak. Beside
Jalan Channel, the daily Sibu Central
Market opens before dawn and closes
around 5pm; there are hundreds of stalls
here, selling anything from mounds of
fruit and jungle ferns to rattan baskets,
beadwork and charm bracelets.
Along Jalan Central you'll find the
Sibu Heritage Centre , with an excellent
museum (Tues-Sun 9am-5pm; free)
on the first floor charting the history of
Sibu and Sarawak through a series of
photographs and objects associated with
each ethnic group - from the Iban and
Penan to the Chinese immigrants.
Shrunken heads in a wicker harness is a
standout exhibit.

6

SIBU
SIBU , 60km from the coast up Batang
Rajang, is Sarawak's second-largest city
and the state's biggest port. If Kuching's
symbol is the cat, then Sibu's is the
swan, and you'll see plenty of those
about. Most of the local population is
Foochow Chinese, and its remarkable
growth is largely attributed to these
enterprising immigrants who came here
in the early twentieth century. Sibu is
the jump-off point for trips up the
Batang Rajang River.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By plane The airport is 23km east of the city centre. Taxis
cost RM35 (via pre-paid coupon at the taxi counter) into
the centre. Between them, MASwings and AirAsia connect
Sibu to Kuching, KK, Bintulu, Miri and KL.
Destinations Bintulu (2 daily; 35min); Kota Kinabalu

(3 daily; 1hr 35min); Kuala Lumpur (2 daily; 2hr); Kuching;
(2 daily; 40min); Miri (2 daily; 55min).
By boat Boats dock at the River Express Terminal, across
the road from the local bus station. The “flying co n”
express boats (named because of their shape) to Kapit
(some via Kanowit and Song; RM20-25) depart once or
twice an hour between 5.45am and 2.30pm from the
Regional Ferry Terminal, in the same building as the
River Express Terminal. If water levels allow, the 5.45am
boat continues to Belaga (most regular during the rainy
season Oct-April; RM70). Large clocks display the
departure time for each boat company; arrive 30min
early and, during holidays, buy tickets a day in advance.
Express Bahagia ( T 084 319228) runs a daily service to
Kuching at 11.30am.
Destinations Belaga (daily; 11hr); Kapit (12 daily; 3hr
30min-4hr); Kuching (daily; 5hr).
By bus The local bus and taxi station is on Jln Khoo Peng
Loong, opposite the boat terminal. Long-distance buses
depart from the Sibu Bus Terminal on Jln Pahlawan, 3.5km
northeast of the centre along Jln Pedada. To get there,
take the #21 Lanang bus from the city bus station.
Destinations Bintulu (11 daily; 3hr 15min); Kuching (15
daily; 7-8hr); Miri (10 daily; 6hr 30min).

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
he town's most striking landmark is the
towering, seven-storey pagoda at the
back of Tua Pek Kong Temple (daily
6am-8pm) - the oldest Chinese temple
in Sibu - beyond the western, waterfront
end of Jalan Khoo Peng Loong. he roof
and columns are decorated with
traditional dragon and holy bird statues,
and murals depict the signs of the
Chinese zodiac; the view from the top is
particularly splendid at sunset. Across the

NAUGHTY MONKEYS
Campers may only put up their tents after
6pm and remove them during the day
due to marauding macaques; wherever
you stay, make sure your belongings and
food are stored away securely or the
monkeys will wreak havoc.