Malaysia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 473

longer practised). Sarawak is the larger
of the two states, and, though well
developed, is a good deal wilder than its
mainland counterpart. Clear rivers spill
down the jungle-covered mountains, and
the surviving rainforest, plateaux and
river communities are inhabited by
indigenous peoples - traditionally
grouped as Land Dyaks, Sea Dyaks
and Orang Ulu.
Most people start their exploration of
Sarawak in the capital Kuching , from
where you can visit Iban longhouses and
Bidayuh traditional dwellings. Bako
National Park is a short day-trip away
from Kuching and is the best place in
Sarawak to spot the pot-bellied proboscis
monkeys. A four-hour boat ride northeast
of Kuching, Sibu marks the start of the
popular route along Batang Rajang ,
Sarawak's longest river. Most people stop
at Kapit and from there visit longhouses
on the Katibas and Baleh tributaries,
before making their way up to Belaga to
explore more of the interior; Belaga can
also be accessed directly from the coast
from Bintulu . Northwest of Bintulu is
Niah National Park , which boasts a vast
cave system and accessible forest hikes.
On its way north to the Brunei border,
the road goes to Miri, from where you
can fly to the spectacular Gunung Mulu
National Park , Sarawak's chief natural
attraction, which features astonishing
limestone pinnacles, some of the world's
largest caves and a swathe of pristine
rainforest for challenging multi-day
treks. Also accessible from Miri are the
remote Kelabit Highlands and their main
village of Bario , where you can opt for
homestays with the Kelabit people and
head further into the interior to meet the
nomadic Penan.

and fort hark back to the days of the
White Rajahs, lending the town a historic
air, while the commercial district in the
old town is a warren of crowded lanes.
At weekends, the market off Jalan Satok
comes alive with vendors selling mounds
of fruit and fresh chillies, pungent dried
fish, handicrafts, orchids and all kinds of
snacks. Saturday afternoon is the best
time to get there.

6

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
he city sprawls along the banks of the
Sungai Sarawak, making the waterfront
its main focus. he southern side of the
river is flanked by a waterfront
promenade, appealing green spaces and
numerous food stalls. Facing the
waterfront is the Main Bazaar , lined with
antique and indigenous handicraft shops
and still sporting the remains of its
original wooden godowns (river
warehouses). Heading eastwards along
the waterfront takes you past Kuching's
columned nineteenth-century courthouse
- now preserved as a tourist centre - with
its colonial-Baroque clock tower and
Charles Brooke memorial, to the Grand
Margherita area, which is full of bars,
restaurants and plazas.

The Sarawak museums
he excellent Sarawak Museums
(Mon-Fri 9am-4.45pm, Sat & Sun
10am-4pm; free; W museum.sarawak
.gov.my), spread across opposite sides of
Jalan Tun Haji Openg, depict Sarawak
in a nutshell. he main building dates
from the 1890s and is set in the grounds
of the botanical gardens. he ground
floor of the museum is a taxidermist's
dream, displaying a range of stuffed
and pickled Sarawak wildlife. Upstairs,
the exceptional ethnographic section
includes an authentic wooden Iban
longhouse, a Penan hut, traditional
tools, musical instruments and weapons.
In the same grounds, the Art Museum
(same hours; free) houses some
interesting tribal carvings and hit-and-
miss local exhibitions.
Across the bridge is the Islamic Museum
(Mon-Fri 9am-4.45pm, Sat & Sun
10am-4pm; free), which exhibits aspects

KUCHING
Sprawled along a lazy waterfront,
KUCHING has a magnetic charm, brought
alive by its waterside stalls, antique and
trinket markets and some lively bars.
Exploring the town's streets on foot is one
of the greatest pleasures, and Kuching also
makes a great base for trips out into the
surrounding area. Kuching's courthouse