Malaysia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 456

By taxi Most guesthouses in Kota Bharu organize shared
taxis (1hr 30min; RM80) direct to Kuala Besut.

TREAT YOURSELF
Villa @ World Café W theworldcafe.com
.my. On the southern end of Long Beach,
these six lovely, secluded villas boast huge
windows, lots of natural light and
beautifully designed interiors, with
king-sized beds dominating the spacious
rooms. It also has outside power showers
set amid sprouting bam boo s hoots. Ideal
for a romantic getaway. RM750

★

GETTING AROUND
Boats Taxi boats shuttle visitors between the beaches and
two islands. Each bay has at least one clearly signposted
taxi-boat point. Prices vary from RM5 to beaches on the
same island, RM10 between the Fisherman's Village on
Kecil and the point directly opposite on Besar, to RM25 to
remoter coves on either island.

6

DIVE OPERATORS
The Perhentians are a good place to get your PADI Open
Water certificate.

welcoming and clean, and there's electricity 24/7. The two
dorms with lockers are by far the nicest on the island.
There's also a restaurant with comfy cushioned seating and
movies screened on the outdoor projector, althou gh the
service and foo d here are pretty mediocre. Dorm RM40 ,
double RM200
Senja Bay T 09 691 1799, W senjabay.com. On the
southern end of the bay, this popular resort consists of
several rows of chalets, all pretty clean and with a/c. The
walls are paper-thin though and sadly staff aren't the most
welcoming around, but ther e are ni ce views of the beach
from the restaurant. Double RM100

PERHENTIAN KECIL
Quiver Diveschool Coral Bay T 012 213 8855, W quiver
-perhentian.com. This brilliant dive school only operates
with small groups and is probably the best bet on either
island for friendliness and personal attention. PADI Open
Water RM1000, fun dive (3-4 hr) RM70.
Turtle Bay Divers Long Beach T 09 691 1630, W turtle
baydivers.com. A large, well-kitted-out dive school with
friendly staff. They also have a sister outfit at Mama's
Chalets on Perhentian Besar. PADI Open Water RM1050,
'“discover scuba” (one day) RM200.

PERHENTIAN KECIL: LONG BEACH
Matahari T 09 691 1740, W mataharichalet.com.
Slightly back from the beach, this place has a large
cluster of chalets and bungalows set around a pleasant
garden. There is a new concrete block with clean a/c
rooms, while the cheaper A-frame huts towards the
front can get qu ite lou d due to the nearby shop's
generator. Double RM60
Mohsin Chalets T 09 691 1363, W mohsinchalet.my.
Nestled on the hillside overlooking Long Beach, the
chalets here are basic but functional; the 22-bed dorm
has a ward-like feel to it, but the wonderful views
over the beach from the breezy restaurant area
compensate. You can also try your hand at takraw , a
Malay version of volley ball played with your feet. Dorm
RM40 , double RM150
Panorama T 09 691 1590. Possibly the most popular
choice for backpackers, with rustic chalets and A-frame
huts set around a large, verdant area. The vibe is
laidback, and there's a pool and nightly films at the
welcoming restau rant. Plenty of diving package deals,
too. Double RM60
Tropicana Inn T 016 266 1333, W perhentiantropicana
.com. Halfway between Coral Bay and Long Beach, this
guesthouse has a peaceful jungle location and spotless,
freshly painted private rooms and dorms, all with en suite
and comfortable beds. There's a café with wi-fi, too. Bring
a torch for wal king up from either beach in the dark. Dorm
RM30 , double RM120

PERHENTIAN BESAR
Flora Bay Divers T 09 691 1661, W florabaydivers.com.
A popular dive outfit that operates dives in small groups.
Prices are slightly more expensive than others on the
island, but the service and attention from the instructors is
exceptional. PADI Open Water RM1200, fun dive RM160.
Universal Diver T 09 691 1621, W universaldiver.net.
A well-organized dive centre run by a group of friendly
enthusiasts. PADI Open Water RM980, fun dive RM90.

ACCOMMODATION
PERHENTIAN KECIL: CORAL BAY
Butterfly Chalets No phone. This place is so laidback
that travellers just stroll in, poke their heads in a few
rooms, see which tickles their fancy and scribble how
many nights they'll be staying on the whiteboard. Staff
seem to be away more often than not, but things somehow
fall into place. The rustic chalets, all with balconies, perch
off the southe rn end of the beach and have great views.
Double RM50
Maya Chalets T 09 691 1037. All the chalets here have
wooden floors and a little balcony, and there are
hammocks slung between palm trees to have a little kip in.
You can also pitch your o wn ten t in the garden (RM10), or
rent one (RM20). Double RM80
Ombak T 09 691 1021, W ombak.my. One of the priciest
resorts along the beach, but justifiably so - the rooms are