Malaysia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 451

Mutiara Taman Negara T 09 266 2200, W mutiara
hotels.com. This luxurious resort is by far the best place to
camp; you can pitch a tent in the lush grounds shaded by
large trees for a very reasonable price (RM15; RM10 if you
have your own tent). The location is handy too, as all the
park's trails start from here. There are also pricey eight-bed
dorms with mosquito nets, ceiling fans, lockers and
communal bathrooms. There's a kitchen for ca mpers to o,
and wi-fi in the lobby area. Dorm RM80 , double RM320
Rainbow T 09 266 6601. This laidback little place has
clean, freshly painted rooms facing one another; all ha ve
a/c and private bath and there's wi-fi too. Double RM70
Yellow Guest House T 09 266 4243 or T 017 946
3357, E [e-mail]. Run by the warm and
welcoming Mohamad, this friendly guesthouse has very
spacious tiled rooms with a/c and private bath. There's
just one cheap room with shared bath (RM40), while
the pricier ones have private balcony. There's all-day tea
and cof fee, co mputers for guests' use and free wi-fi.
Double RM70

stunningly clear azure waters and white
sands fringed with palm trees. Further
south is Pulau Kapas , which also boasts
fantastic coral reefs and wildlife in idyllic
settings. he annual monsoon affects
the east coast between November and
February (see box, p.406).

6

KOTA BHARU
At the very northeastern corner of the
Peninsula, close to the hai border, KOTA
BHARU is the capital of Kelantan State
and one of the few Muslim-governed
states in Malaysia. he town itself is
rather drab, although there are a few
interesting sights that will keep you busy
for an afternoon. here's an impressive
Cultural Centre, lots of craft workshops,
museums and a bustling night market.
During the holy month of Ramadan ,
strongly Muslim Kota Bharu virtually
shuts up shop.

EATING AND DRINKING
Floating Restaurants The riverside is lined with
floating restaurants serving a samey mix of Malay, Indian
and pseudo-Western dishes (mains RM5).
Mutiara Taman Negara Resort Besides being one of
the very few places that serves alcohol, this fairly pricey
restaurant at the park headquarters offers international
dishes, such as pasta, steaks and burgers, welcome to
those who've overdosed on noodles and rice. Mains from
RM30. Daily noon-10pm.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Small Padang Merdeka in the north part
of town is Kota Bharu's historical heart.
here's a cluster of museums here (all
open daily except Fri 8.30am-4.45pm),
the best of which is the Istana Jahar
(RM4). It houses the Royal Customs
Museum, whose ground floor is given
over to a display of exquisite ikat and
songket textiles and ornate gold jewellery.
Upstairs, you'll see life-size reconstructions
of various traditional royal ceremonies,
from weddings to circumcisions.
Around the corner to your left is the
sky-blue Istana Batu (RM2), now the
Kelantan Royal Museum , in which the
sultan's family's rooms have been left in
their original state including photographs
of the royal family.
Inside the impressive 1912 Bank
Kerapu building, the War Museum
(RM3) tells the story of World War II in
Southeast Asia and the effects of the
Japanese occupation on Malaysia.
he octagonal central market is one of
the most vibrant in Malaysia; from the
first floor there's an extremely photogenic
view of the produce stalls below, while
the Buluh Kubu complex next door has
several floors devoted to batik - an

The east coast
he 400km stretch from the northeastern
corner of the Peninsula to Kuantan,
roughly halfway down the east coast, is
the most “Malay” region in Malaysia,
with strong cultural traditions -
particularly in conservative Kota Bharu ,
the last major town before the hai
border, and one of the few towns in
Malaysia with a Muslim majority. he
food on the east coast is some of the most
imaginative in Malaysia and Islamic
traditions are strictly followed - the call
to prayer will wake you up before sunrise,
and there are fewer buses on Fridays.
here are some good beaches along the
east coast, including laidback Cherating .
he most beautiful beaches, however, are
on Pulau Perhentian in the north, with its