Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
from as far away as Africa decorate this welcoming
restaurant. The calming sounds of the water fountain and
ethnic music add to the therapeutic atmosphere. Creative
dishes include bumbu bali duck with coriander, turmeric
and chilli (RM39). Mon-Sat 6-11.30pm.
Little Lylia's Halfway down the beach. This welcoming
place with rustic candlelit tables is a great place for a
sundowner - try the Langkawi sunset (mango juice and
red wine on ice; RM12) as you nibble on chicken satay
(RM10). They also offer great fish and seafood barbecues,
and there's live music nightly at 9pm. Daily 10am-3am.
Rafii's Halfway down the beach. Laidback beachside
restaurant with a bar and tables spilling onto the sand. It
offers great Western and Malay dishes (mains RM15).
Thurs-Tues noon-midnight.
indigenous peoples, the Negritos and
Senoi, with their main means of transport.
Visitors, too, can travel by boat to perhaps
the most stunning of all Peninsular
Malaysia's delights, Taman Negara National
Park , with its numerous jungle trails. And
what better way to get from the coasts to
these wilderness places than by the Jungle
Railway , which chugs leisurely through the
lush green interior to Kota Bharu on the
northwest coast.
6
THE JUNGLE RAILWAY
he Jungle Railway winds through the
valleys and round the sandstone hills
from Mentakab in southern Pahang to
Kota Bharu, 500km to the northeast. It
also offers useful stops at Jerantut and
Kuala Tembeling, both access points for
Taman Negara. he line was completed
in 1931 and runs at a snail's pace along
valley floors where trees and plants almost
envelop the track.
It's a great way to encounter rural life,
and for the Malays, Tamils and Orang
Asli who live in these remote areas, the
railway is the only alternative to walking.
Many people do this trip from south to
north, but going in the opposite direction,
from north to south, gives you many
more hours of daylight in the jungle.
Since the trains (even the express ones)
tend to be slow, it's best to take a bus from
KL to Jerantut, and then take the 2pm
train from there to Kota Bharu; if
travelling from Kota Bharu, take the
6.30am train south, scheduled to arrive
in Jerantut at 1.30pm. Check W ktmb
.com.my for updated schedules.
Red Tomato Opposite McDonald's . This hugely popular
German-owned place attracts expats and travellers alike
for generous, tasty dishes of Western grub such as leafy
salads, thin-crust pizzas, saucy pastas and wonderful
desserts. Coeliacs will rejoice too - all the above also come
gluten free. Mains from RM20. Daily 9am-11pm.
Yellow Café Towards the south end of Cenang,
commanding a great spot on the beach, this French-
owned restaurant offers great steaks, kebabs, salads and
seafood barbecue. The cocktails (RM20) complement the
sunset very nicely indeed and there are occasional live
bands. Mains from RM20. Tues-Sun noon-1am.
DIRECTORY
Banks Langkawi's banks are on three parallel streets
behind the MAYA shopping complex in Kuah. In Pantai
Cenang there is a Maybank with ATM at Cenang Mall;
there's also a Maybank ATM at Underwater World and a
couple of ATMs and moneychangers at the airport.
Hospital The Langkawi District Hospital is at Jln Bukit
Teguh ( T 04 966 3333).
Laundry On the northern end of Pantai Tengah. Two
Seasons Laundry (daily 9am-7pm; RM4.50/kg).
Post o ce The GPO is at Jln Kisap in Kuah town; there's
also a branch at Padang Matsirat near the airport (daily
except Fri 8am-5pm).
JERANTUT
JERANTUT , a small grid of streets
surrounded by jungle, with only one
major street, Jalan Besar, is the gateway to
Taman Negara National Park. It also has
useful transport links to the Perhentian
Islands, Kota Bharu and Kuantan.
The interior
Banjaran Titiwangsa (Main Range) forms
the western boundary of the interior; to
its east is an H-shaped range of steep,
sandstone mountains and luxuriant valleys
where small towns and villages nestle. he
rivers that flow from these mountains
- Pahang, Tembeling, Lebir, Nenggiri and
Galas - provide the northern interior's
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus The bus station is located along Jln Diwangsa, in
the town centre and a couple of blocks south of the main
Jln Besar.
 
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