Malaysia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 433

French Hotel 60-62 Jln Dato Onn Jaafar. The spick-
and-span rooms here all have modern private bathrooms,
fridges, TVs and a/c. Staff are welcoming and helpful, and
there's a superb, cosy caf é serving Western dishes on the
first floor. Double RM138
★

stretch of road running through the jungle,
passing the airstrip and emerging at the
less-than-clean Teluk Datam Beach.
here are plenty of independent outfits
offering activities and watersports, from
kayaking (RM20/hr) to jet skiing
(RM70/20min), as well as island-hopping
(RM20) and snorkelling trips (RM15).

★

Jose & Deli 2nd Floor, 60-62 Jln Dato Onn Jaafar.
This wonderful café-deli within French Hotel has rustic
wooden tables, comfy wicker armchairs and soothing
background music. The menu embraces great Western
cuisine, including soups (RM10), Caesar salads (RM25) and
a selection of sandwiches and burgers (RM20), as well as
fish and chips (RM28). Daily 7.30am-10.30pm.
Sun Yuan Foong White Coffee 15A Jln Bandar Timah.
A local institution, this no-frills place is packed with
Chinese customers who come here for the great white
coffee (RM1.50) to be enjoyed with sponge cake (RM1.30)
or toasted bread with butter and local jam (RM1.60).
Mon-Sat 6.30am-5.30pm, Sun 6.30am-1pm.

6

The east coast
While the east coast's main settlement,
pungent-smelling Pangkor Town, is
unlikely to detain you for long, just north
of the centre is a turn-off for the
colourful Foo Lin Kong Temple , featuring
fearsome deities and a miniature version
of the Great Wall of China. hree
kilometres south of Pangkor Town you'll
come across Kota Belanda , the Dutch fort
originally built in 1670, which looks new
because it was rebuilt in the 1980s.

PULAU PANGKOR
At only 3km by 9km, PULAU PANGKOR is
one of the most minute of the west coast's
islands, with some pleasant stretches of
beach. It's only a forty-minute ferry ride
from the port of Lumut (85km southwest
of Ipoh).
Most villages lie along the east coast,
while tourist accommodation and the
best beaches are on the west side of the
island, at Pasir Bogak and Teluk Nipah.
A sealed road runs right round the island,
and if you're exploring Pulau Pangkor by
motorbike, you do have to be a confident
rider, as there are some steep hairpin
bends between Teluk Dalam on the
north coast by the airstrip and the east
coast, as well as the stretch between Pasir
Bogak and Tekuk Nipah.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By boat Pulau Pangkor is served by frequent ferries from
Lumut (every 30min, 6.30am-8.30pm; 30min; RM10 one-
way), calling at Sungei Pinang Kecil before reaching the
main jetty at Pangkor Town.
By plane Berjaya Air ( W berjaya-air.com) flies between
Pulau Pangkor and Kuala Lumpur's Subang Airport
(3 weekly; 45min).
By bus In Lumut, buses depart from the town's bus
station, a 3min walk from the jetty.
Destinations Butterworth (8 daily; 4hr); KL (hourly; 6hr);
Kota Bharu (2 daily; 10hr); Malacca (2 daily; 8hr); Ipoh
(hourly; 1hr 30min).

GETTING AROUND
Minibus taxis These pink vehicles meet the ferries from
Lumut and charge RM15 from Pangkor Town to Pasir Bogak,
RM20 to Teluk Nipah and RM80 for a round-island trip.
Motorbike and bicycle rental The best way to explore
is by motorbike (RM30 for manual or RM50 for a scooter/
day) or bicycle (RM20/day), available from guesthouses
in Telik Nipah.

The west coast
Down the south end of the west coast is
Pasir Bogak , a beach popular with locals.
Halfway along the west coast is Teluk
Nipah , the most popular place for visitors,
with an attractive beach fringed with
shade-providing palm trees. Just north of
Teluk Nipah is Coral Beach , a perfect cove
with crystal-clear sea and smooth white
sand, reachable by road; at its north end
you'll find the decidedly strange Lin Je
Kong Temple featuring two devotional
figures of Donald Duck and Mickey
Mouse. Up from Coral Beach is a lovely

ACCOMMODATION
Nazri Nipah Camp T 05 685 2014. This well-established
backpacker favourite offers tiny A-framed huts sleeping
two for a bargain RM30, as well as larger, more comfortable
rooms with private bath. There's a leafy chill-out area with
bench es and hamm ocks, a nd a kitchen for guests' use.
Dorm RM15 , double RM50
Nipah Bay Villa T 05 685 2198, W nipahbay.com. The
larger rooms here are located in comfy wooden chalets,