Laos - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 396

Champasak also available (70,000K). Alternatively, take
the ferry across the Mekong and flag down a bus heading
north along Route 13 - be aware that buses may be very
full. Minibuses can also be arranged to Thailand and
Cambodia. Sawngthaews for Pakse and Champasak depart
from in front of the tourist o ce in Muang Khong at
around 8am each morning (2-3hr; 50,000K).

with a fish-focused menu (mains around 40,000K) and
decent coffee shakes. Daily 6.30am-10pm.
Pon's River Guesthouse Attached to the guesthouse of
the same name (see above). Ideally situated with a river
view and popular with travellers, Pon's does cheap beer
(10,000K) and fried rice (15,000K). Daily 6am-10pm.
Ratana Riverside Close to the boat pier. A relaxed
restaurant under a thatched roof, with falang -friendly
versions of Lao dishes (don't be afraid to ask for more
chilli), plus Western favourites. Daily 6.30am-10pm.

5

INFORMATION
Bank The Agricultural Promotion Bank (daily 8am-
3.30pm), at the south end of Muang Khong, past the wat,
exchanges dollars and baht and has an ATM.
Bikes and motorbikes Several of the guesthouses and
shops facing the Mekong in Muang Khong offer bicycles
for rent (10,000K/day). Motorbikes are available for
50,000K/day.
Internet Most guesthouses offer free wi-fi. Otherwise,
try the internet café just north of V Mala (200K/minute).

Don Khon and Don Det
he tropical islands of Don Khon and
Don Det , 15km downstream from
Don Khong, are fringed with swaying
coconut palms and planted with
jade- and emerald-coloured rice paddies.
Besides being a picturesque little haven
for backpackers, who come here in
ever-increasing numbers, they also offer
some leisurely walks and bike rides.
he more popular island for backpackers
to stay on is the rapidly developing island
of Don Det, with Don Khon catering for
more mid-range budgets. Despite the
explosion of travellers' cafés, many of
which openly sell happy shakes and joints,
parts of Don Det still maintain a rustic
charm, though if you're looking for
something a bit quieter, it's best to head
for Don Khon. Simple wooden
bungalows with hammocks out front line
the coastlines of both islands, coaxing
people into staying here for days (and, in
many cases, weeks).

ACCOMMODATION
Don Khong's accommodation is concentrated in Muang
Khong, which provides a good launching point for excur-
sions around the Si Phan Don area.
Done Khong Guesthouse Just across the road from
the ferry landing T 031 214010. This long-established
place in a very handy location near the dock has basic
en-suite rooms (those at the front share a little terrace)
and ve ry friend ly staff who speak English and French.
Double 70,000K
★

Pon's River Guesthouse 150m north of the ferry
landing T 020 2227 0037, W ponsriverguesthouse
-donkhong.com. A great place to stay, with tidy en-suite
rooms, and a very popular restaurant downstairs. TV and
a/c are available for an extra 20,000K. The manager is well
connect ed local ly and can arrange a variety of tours.
Double 60,000K
Souk Sabay Along the waterfront T 031 214122.
Modern, en-suite rooms around a family compound, set
back from the river road. The rooms downstairs are a bit
dark and musty - it's wor th paying 10,000K more for one
upstairs. Double 50,000K
V Mala Just north of the ATM on the main north-south
road T 020 9754 5787. Simple but surprisingly stylish,
these timber-floored rooms are located in a rust-red
wooden house one street back from the river. Bathrooms
are shared, but there are se parate fa cilities for men and
women. Good value. Double 50,000K

FISH AND WHISKY
Fish is a staple in Si Phan Don. Recipes
range from the traditional larp pa (a
salad of minced fish mixed with garlic,
chillies, shallots and fish sauce) to tropical
fish steamed in coconut milk. Be sure to
try the island speciality mók pa , fish
steamed in banana leaves, which has
the consistency of custard and takes an
hour to prepare.
The local lào-láo has gained a reputation
as one of the best rice whiskies in Laos.
For those who haven't taken a shine to
Lao white lightning, Muang Khong has
devised a gentler blend known as the
“Lao cocktail”, a mix of wild honey and
lào-láo served over ice.

EATING AND DRINKING
Most of the guesthouses have restaurants attached,
serving the usual array of Western and Asian dishes from
near-identical menus.
Done Khong At the guesthouse of the same name (see
above). Breezy restaurant on a deck overlooking the water,