Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
ACCOMMODATION
Arimid Just south of the slow boat landing T 084 211040.
A collection of a dozen basic but attractive two-room
bungalows, with a very cheap restaurant. If you're looking
for so mething w ith Lao flavour, this is a good choice.
Double 80,000K
Phonetip At the top of the old ferry landing T 084
211084. The cheapest rooms here are rather cramped,
with shared bathrooms, but an extra 20, 000K will buy you
a bit more space and an en suite. Double 40,000K
Phonevichith Above the slowboat pier T 084 211765,
W houayxairiverside.com. Set in a striking ochre-orange
building (next to swisher sister property, Houayxai
Riverside ), with good-value rooms that demonstrate a
touch more class than down in town. The wooden terrace
restaurant right on the water offers all kinds of soups,
salads and fried dishes. A lso organizes bus travel to
Thailand. Double 100,000K
5
Destinations from new bus station Chiang Khong,
Thailand (4 daily; 30min); Chiang Rai, Thailand (4 daily;
4hr); Dien Bien Phu, Vietnam (6 weekly; 15hr); Jinghong,
China (6 weekly; 12hr); Kunming, China (daily; 17hr);
Luang Namtha (daily; 3hr 30min); Luang Prabang (daily;
12hr); Mengla, China (6 weekly; 8hr); Vang Vieng (daily;
17hr); Vientiane (daily; 21hr).
Destinations from old bus station
Luang Namtha
(2 daily; 4hr); Luang Prabang (daily; 13hr); Oudomxai
(daily; 8hr); Vientiane (daily; 23hr).
By boat The slow-boat pier is about 1km north of the
centre; there's a daily departure for Pakbeng, midway to
Luang Prabang, at 11.30am (110,000K), but arrive at least
30min early to ensure a seat. The speedboat pier is 4km
downriver of the centre (tuk-tuk 15,000K). Boats for
Pakbeng (170,000K) and Luang Prabang (340,000K)
theoretically depart at 9.30am but leave when full - get
there well in advance (and conversely be prepared for a
wait), or to be safe book via an agent in town.
Destinations
River View Behind the Meuang Neu restaurant, 100m
north of the old ferry landing T 030 9030993. Spacious
rooms in a long, three-story block leading down to the
river. Shaded by tall palm trees, the garden terrace at
the back is one of the lovelie st places t o contemplate the
sunset with a Beerlao. Double 80,000K
Luang Prabang (speedboat: daily; 6-7hr);
Pakbeng (slow boat: daily 7hr; speedboat: daily 3-4hr).
INFORMATION
Tourist information The tourist o ce (Mon-Fri
8.30am-noon & 1.30-4pm), in the centre just south of
the old ferry landing, is mainly interested in pointing
customers towards its tours.
Internet The Gateway hotel, at the top of the old ferry
landing, has internet terminals (10,000K/hr).
Massage and sauna The Red Cross Sauna (Mon-Fri 1.30-
9pm, Sat & Sun 10.30am-9pm) offers traditional massage
(from 35,000K/hr) and herbal sauna (10,000K). It is just
beyond the wooden bridge towards the slow boat pier.
Sabaydee 200m north of the old ferry landing T 020
5692 9458. This modern hotel boasts big, spotlessly clean
rooms, with a terrace at the top that offers terrific views of
the Me kong. A fri endly welcome and the best deal in town.
Double 90,000K
EATING AND DRINKING
Bar How? 100m north of the old ferry landing. Relaxed
restaurant and lounge with good music and ambient
DOWN THE MEKONG
Although it's now a well-worn tourist route, many travellers agree that the two-day journey by
slow boat ( heua sa ) along the Mekong from Houayxai to the old royal capital of Luang
Prabang, stopping overnight at the village of Pakbeng, is one of those definitive Southeast
Asian experiences. Originally, these antiquated diesel-powered boats were primarily for cargo
and the occasional Lao passengers who relied on them for trade and transport. These days it's
a fairly comfortable journey, the boats fully converted for fat Western bottoms, with seating
generally on cushioned wooden benches or reclinable “airline” seating, and enough space to
wander around, play cards, read Kindles and so on. Drinks and a few snacks are on sale on
board - though you'd do better to bring your own provisions - and there are Western loos.
Big bags are normally stored down in the hold at the back. It can be chilly on board, so bring
warm clothing.
Whether you consider taking one of the speedboats ( heua wai ) between Houayxai and
Luang Prabang, which stop in Pakbeng for lunch, depends on how risk-averse you are.
Skimming across the water at speeds of up to 60km/hr, or even faster, these cramped
eight-seater crafts cut hours off journey times, but there's no doubt that the exhilarating ride is
a great deal less comfortable and more dangerous - deaths have been reported, though the
vast majority of journeys pass off incident-free. Life vests and crash helmets are provided - the
latter most useful as protection against the wind and engine noise.
 
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