Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
5
leave Muang Ngoi around 9.30am for both Nong Khiaw
(25,000K; 1hr) and, if there's enough demand, Muang
Khoua (for Vietnam, see box below; 100,000K; 5hr). Boats
to Nong Khiaw arrive in time for you to catch the bus to
Luang Prabang.
plus a few newer bungalows in a flower-filled compound
at the top of the road. Also has one of the nicest restaurants
in town , on a bre ezy balcony overlooking the boat landing.
Double 80,000K
Lertkeo T 020 7730 5041. With fantastic views across
the river, this is as upmarket as Muang Ngoi gets, offering
five sturdily built concrete bungalows with immaculate
bathroo ms - tho ugh they're a little packed together.
Double 100,000K
Riverside Bungalows T 020 2214 8777,
E pdvbungalows@gmail.com. Though it's a bit pricier
than similar ramshackle bungalows along the strip, what
you lose in pennies you gain in genuinely hot showers,
two hammocks per balcony (so no squabbling…) and the
best mattresses in town. The same owners sometimes
have “beach” barb ecues up at the Riverbeach Bar , north of
the boat landing. 80,000K
INFORMATION AND TOURS
Bicycles Mountain bikes can be rented from the shop in
front of Phonevaly Guesthouse (60,000K/day).
Services Note that there's nowhere to change money in
Muang Ngoi and, for the time being, no internet - though
this was likely to change in 2014.
Tours Lao Youth Travel ( T 030 2005385, W laoyouthtravel
.com), near the boat landing, can organize treks and
kayaking tours.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Muang Ngoi has lots of cheap wood and bamboo
bungalows built on stilts, most of which line the strip
along the riverbank. Sleepy by day, the village is positively
supine by nightfall, and on a quiet night many restaurants
will have packed up for bed by 8.30pm.
Bee Tree Right at the bottom end of the village, this
attractive, lantern-lit restaurant with seating on bamboo
sofas offers the village's best Lao food - well spiced and
freshly made, with mains around 35,000K. Daily
11.30am-11.30pm.
Lattanavongsa T 020 2236 2444. Up from the boat
landing, on the left. A very popular guesthouse, with four
very clean and large rooms in a low wooden bungalow
OUDOMXAI
North of Luang Prabang, the bustling
administrative town of OUDOMXAI is an
important transport hub at the junction
of Route 1 and Route 4; if you spend any
time travelling in the north, you'll most
likely need to spend a night here. hough
it's not the most exciting of towns, it has
an energy about it that you don't often
find in Laos. he fresh market , 1.5km
northwest of the bus station (daily
7am-6pm), is a fascinating place to
spend half an hour, though the meat and
fish section is not for the faint-hearted.
INTO VIETNAM: TAY TRANG
Travellers bound for Vietnam can take a
direct bus to Dien Bien Phu , via the
border at Sop Hun/Tay Trang, from the
workaday crossroads town of Muang
Khoua , reached by bus from Oudomxai
(see below) or on a spectacular boat
journey up the Nam Ou through primeval
jungle from Nong Khiaw or Muang Ngoi
(see p.381). The most convenient service
leaves around 10.30am from outside
Muang Khoua's tourist o ce, arriving in
Dien Bien Phu around 3pm. Note that you
will need to already have your Vietnamese
visa to make this crossing. You can also
reach Dien Bien Phu direct from
Oudomxai and even Houayxai.
For accommodation in Muang Khoua,
the most popular backpacker choice is the
Nam Ou Guesthouse ( T 088 210844;
40,000K), with a sociable terrace restaurant
right above the boat landing, though the
cell-like rooms are a little flimsy.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By air There are 1-2 flights daily from Vientiane to
Oudomxai's airport, 1km southeast of town (50min).
Tuk-tuks run into the centre (10,000K), though you could
easily walk.
By bus Buses from all destinations arrive at the bus
station, a 5-10min walk from most of the guesthouses
(turn left up the main road out of the bus station). Arrive
30min-1hr early when catching a bus out of Oudomxai, as
it's not unknown for them to set off early if they're full.
Destinations Dien Bien Phu, Vietnam (daily; 7hr); Houayxai
(Bokeo; daily; 7hr); Luang Namtha (3 daily; 4hr); Luang
Prabang (3 daily; 5hr); Mengla, China (via Boten; daily;
6hr); Muang Khoua (3 daily; 3hr); Nong Khiaw (daily; 4hr);
Pakbeng (2 daily; 3hr 30min); Vientiane (4 daily; 15hr).
INFORMATION
Bicycles Bikes (from 30,000K) and motorbikes (from
80,000K) can be rented from Xaiya Service, 300m east off
the main road (turn right just south of Litthavixay ).
 
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