Laos - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 372

Saffron Branches on Souliyavongsa and Inthasone roads.
The best place in town for a pulse-quickening espresso,
either inside among sepia photos and jazz music, or (at the
Souliyavongsa branch) outside on the terrace overlooking
the Mekong. There's a good range of breakfasts, including a
delicious granola bowl (20,000K), and you can also buy their
own locally grown coffee here. Daily 7am-9pm.

barbecue technique. All-inclusive buffet (excluding alcohol)
60,000K. Daily 6-10pm.
Thaheuame Souliyavongsa Rd. One of the most popular
riverside restaurants, with both locals and tourists, serving
an extensive, predominantly Lao menu that includes a
spicy papaya salad for 15,000K. Daily 6am-9pm.
Un Petit Nid Sakkaline Rd. This cute “biblio-bistro” set
slightly back from the main road makes a nice retreat
throughout the day; try the kao pun (noodle soup with
coconut milk, potatoes and galangal; 25,000K). Daily
7.30am-9.30pm.

5

★

RESTAURANTS
Coconut Garden Sisavangvong Rd. One of the most
atmospheric choices along this over-populated stretch,
with seats under lanterns in the courtyard, and a strong
Lao menu that includes kranab pa (grilled river fish stuffed
with pork and herbs, wrapped in a banana leaf; 48,000K),
though portions can be a little small. Daily 8am-11.30pm.
★

DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE
The main bar area is southeast of the old city, between
Phousi and the Nam Khan. Don't expect amazing nightlife
- a town curfew has the bars closing at 11.30pm.
Bowling Alley 4km southwest of town, past the
Southern bus station. Believe it or not, the place to be after
the bars close is the ten-pin bowling alley. A game costs
20,000K/person, though judging by the quality of play
it's the Beerlao (15,000K) that's the bigger attraction.
Tuk-tuks wait outside Lao Lao Garden and Utopia at
chucking-out time to take you there. Daily noon-2am.
Hive Popular if rather brash bar that runs a hip-hop and
“Ethnik” fashion show (Tues-Sun from 7pm), though
happy hour (noon-7pm) is arguably the biggest draw,
offering two-for-one deals on classic cocktails (25,000K
each). Daily 7am-11.30pm.
Lao Lao Garden Large, hugely atmospheric garden bar
- a great place to chill out over a Lao barbecue (49,000K)
under the lanterns, before things pick up later on. The
huge drinks menu includes a range of rather potent
two-for-one cocktails from 20,000K, and large Beerlao for
14,000K. Daily 8am-11.30pm.
S Bar With a drinks menu printed on 12” vinyl, this new
kid on the block thinks of itself as a cooler, classier
alternative to the competition along the main bar strip.
It's quickly become famous for its burgers (55,000K), and
there are occasional themed nights and gigs (check
W facebook.com/sbarlaos). Daily noon-11.30pm.
★

Dyen Sabai Ban Phan Luang, across the Nam Khan
from the old city. Eating and drinking in Luang Prabang
doesn't get much more atmospheric than Dyen Sabai ,
reached by bamboo bridge (5000K from 8am to 6pm) in
dry season, and by boat in wet season. Cushions are
scattered around the low bamboo “huts” here, creating a
really relaxing place from which to make the most of the
two-for-one cocktails (25,000K) during happy hour
(noon-7pm), and specialities like sin dad (Lao barbecue;
from 70,000K for two). Daily 8am-11pm.
Khem Khan Food Garden High on the bank of the Nam
Khan River behind Phousi, this is a great venue for traditional
Lao food, with lovely views of the Nam Kham. The keng kai
màk nao , a soup served with chicken, and the sai oua
sausages (both 40,000K) are standouts. Daily 8am-10pm.
Nisha Kitsalat Rd. No-frills Indian that dishes up Luang
Prabang's best south Indian veg curries - try the malai
kofta (16,000K) or aloo baingan (13,000K) - though
there's also the obligatory chicken tikka masala for the
meaty-minded. Daily 9am-11pm.
Riverside Barbecue Souliyavongsa Rd. By far the most
popular spot by the Mekong, this big, bustling sin dad joint
packs in hundreds every night, especially in winter when
you can huddle around the smouldering pits for warmth.
Obliging waiters are on hand to help you perfect your

Utopia On the river south of Wat Aham; follow the
signs from the main road. “Zen by day, groovy by night” is
Utopia 's philosophy - and it's a real winner. With stunning
river views, rustic-tropical decor, and a good menu of food
and booze, not to mention early morning yoga, “beach”
volleyball, DJ evenings and BBQ-in-a-bomb nights, there's
enough to make your visit last all day. Daily 8am-11.30pm.

TREAT YOURSELF
3 Nagas Sakkaline Rd T 071 253888,
W 3-nagas.com. If you can afford to splash
out on one meal, it should be at the
atmospheric dining room of this gorgeous
hotel. The Lao dishes are beautifully
prepared and presented - try the
exquisite larp with sliced Mekong fish
(56,000K) or the lemongrass stuffed with
pork (60,000K). The wine list is excellent,
and the boozy cocktails (Lao sling
50,000K) to die for. Daily 6.30am-10.30pm.

★

ENTERTAINMENT
L'Etranger Books & Tea , just west of the Hive bar, shows
quality films nightly at 7pm; there's no charge, but you are
expected to buy food (see opposite) or a drink. Movies are
also shown most nights at Xayana and LPQ Backpackers
(see p.373).