Laos - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 370

(Borkeo; 2-3 daily; 14hr); Luang Namtha (daily; 9hr);
Nong Khiaw (3 daily; 4hr); Oudomxai (3 daily; 6hr).
Destinations from Southern bus station Phonsavan
(daily; 10hr); Vang Vieng (2 daily; 6-7hr); Vientiane (10
daily; 10-12hr); Vinh, Vietnam (daily; 22hr).
Destinations from Naluang tourist bus station

5

THE OLD CITY
★

Namsok Sisavangvatthani Rd T 020 2235 4747,
E [e-mail]. On one of the few streets in
the old city where you can still get a room for $10, this
friendly place is excellent value, with big and spotless,
if rather sparse, wood-floored rooms. For a bit more style
(and cash), the ones in the blo ck behin d have TVs and
snazzy black bathrooms. Double 80,000K
Pathoumphone Soukkaseum Rd T 071 212946. A real
bargain, especially considering its location right opposite
the Nam Khan, with very friendly owners. Rooms have
shared bathrooms and verge on dingy, but you won't find
cheaper. Ask for room two, which has a small balcony and
views over the river. Double 60,000K
Sok Dee Off Souliyavongsa Rd T 071 252555. Tucked off
the Mekong Road, this popular guesthouse is a great
choice for somewhere a little quieter but still central.
Go for one of the rooms upstairs in the main building -
bright and welcoming, though the trade-offs are thin
walls and periodic lapses i n cleanline ss. Very handy for
breakfast at Saffron . Double 140,000K
Thanaboun Sisavangvong Rd T 071 260606,
E [e-mail]. Rooms here are set back
from the main drag and are plain but attractive. The most
atmospheric, yet also the smallest and che apest, are th ose
off the small courtyard at the back. Double 150,000K
View Khem Khong Souliyavongsa Rd T 071 213032,
E [e-mail]. The cheapest rooms here may
be rather cramped and without a view, but you won't find
many better priced on the Mekong road. The attached
restaurant (see p.375) is good. Double 140,000K

Chiang
Mai, Thailand (daily; 16hr); Hanoi, Vietnam (6 weekly;
24hr); Kunming, China (daily; 26hr); Loei, Thailand (daily;
9hr); Luang Namtha (daily; 9hr); Nong Khiaw (daily; 3hr
30min); Oudomxai (daily; 5hr); Phonsavan (daily; 7hr);
Vang Vieng (3-5 daily; 5-6hr); Vientiane (2 daily; 10hr);
Vinh, Vietnam (6 weekly; 24hr).

INFORMATION AND TOURS
Tourist information Lao National Tourism Adminis-
tration, Sisavangvong Rd (Mon-Fri 8-11.30am & 1.30-
4pm, Sat & Sun 9-11.30am & 1-3.30pm; T 071 212487,
W tourismluangprabang.org); Ban Natha, Chomphet, a
5min walk north of the Xieng Men boat landing (Mon-Fri
8-11.30am & 1.30-4pm).
Tour agencies Sisavangvong Road is lined with tour
agencies (including those listed here) offering day and
overnight treks, mountain biking, kayaking, white-water
rafting (in season), elephant rides - and myriad combina-
tions thereof. Though they're a little pricier than the
competition, Green Discovery ( T 071 212093, W green
discoverylaos.com) and Tiger Trail ( T 071 252655,
W laos-adventures.com) can be relied on for both the
quality and ethics of their tours.

CITY TRANSPORT
Bicycles Many guesthouses, and various shops along
Sakkaline/Sisavangvong Road, rent bicycles for 20,000K/
day, and you can also find motorbikes for rent on
Sisavangvong Rd (from 100,000K/day).
Tuk-tuks Tuk-tuks can be surprisingly hard to find when
you need one; there are always congregations outside
the tourist o ce and above the vehicle ferry pier. A ride
anywhere in town should cost around 15,000-20,000K
but you'll need to haggle.

SOUTHWEST OF THE OLD CITY
★

Khammany Inn Photisalath Rd T 020 9529 3925,
E [e-mail]. Professionally run and
immaculately kept, this sociable place a 10min walk from
the old city is hugely popular with backpackers and
justifiably so. Ask for one of the smaller basement dorms
- from the first-floor 16-bedder there's a two-storey
hop dow n to th e bathroo m. Breakfast included. Dorm
45,000K , double 160,000K
LPQ Backpackers Hostel Off Chao Fa Ngum Rd T 020
9113 8686. On the nicest and leafiest of the little lanes
leading to the river, with slightly squished dorms but
smart bathrooms with top-notch showers, and a chilled-
out movies room. Av oid the o verprice d, box-like private
rooms, though. Dorm 50,000K , double 120,000K
SpicyLaos/Lemon Laos T 020 2255 5539. Prone to
periodic identity crises (hence the twin names), this long-
established backpacker joint has cheap but not hugely
cheerful accommodation in very dark dorms - so great for
escaping the heat, or recovering from a Beerlao hangover.
There's a large p atio and a great communal vibe. Dorm
30,000K , double 70,000K

ACCOMMODATION
Accommodation in Luang Prabang is significantly more
expensive than elsewhere in the country, and it can be
hard to find much below 100,000K in high season. While
the old city is still home to a dwindling number of budget
options, the nicest area to stay for travellers on a budget is
in the narrow lanes behind Joma café a short stroll west
from the old city between Chao Fa Ngum Rd and the
Mekong, though for a bit more nightlife (such as it is) you
may prefer one of the guesthouses around Lao Lao Garden
and Utopia , southeast of Phousi. Prices tend to rise around
November but you can get good discounts in low season
(May-Sept). Almost all places have free wi-fi.