Laos - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 358

Tuk-tuks Shared tuk-tuks generally ply frequently
travelled routes, such as Lane Xang Avenue between the
Morning Market and That Luang, and along Setthathilat
and Fa Ngum roads, and charge around 10,000K/person
for destinations within the city. There are usually a few
tuk-tuks parked and waiting for foreign passengers near
Nam Phou; note that the prices the drivers have listed on
laminated sheets are inflated for tourists.
Taxis Expensive, metered yellow taxis tend to congregate
outside Day Inn on Pangkham Rd, just north of the Lao
Plaza hotel.

V Hotel Opposite Via Via on Nokeo Koummane Rd T 021
255999. A tall modern block near the river, with good-
value rooms and decent hot showers. The echoing corridors
tend to amplify ev en the sma llest sounds, so noise can be
a problem. Double 200,000K

5

EATING
The culinary scene in Vientiane caters to virtually every taste,
from sausage and sauerkraut to Korean BBQ. In addition to
authentically Lao markets and noodle stands, Vientiane also
has a large concentration of Western restaurants.

ACCOMMODATION
Funky Monkey Hostel François Ngin Rd T 021 254181,
W funkymonkeyhostel.com. Very simple rooms and dorms
in a tired-looking building a quick stroll up from the
Mekong. Low prices attract young backpackers and solo
travellers, who wind up dri nking aro und the lobby's po ol
table most evenings. Dorm 40,000K , double 120,000K
Heuan Lao Off Samsenthai Rd, near Wat Simuang T 021
216258. This friendly, rambling guesthouse run by an older
couple is located on a quiet lane opposite a park. Around
the peaceful courtyard, where cats and dogs relax in the
sun, yo u'll find sin gles, doubles and triples, all en suite.
Double 120,000K
Mixay 39 Nokeo Koummane Rd T 021 217023. One of the
cheapest places in town, with spartan rooms ranging from
fan singles to triples rented out bed-by-bed like dorms, with
either attached bathrooms or shared facilities. The double
rooms seem better maintain ed. Two r ooms h ave balconi es
overlooking the street. Dorm 35,000K , double 100,000K
Mixok 189 Setthathilat Rd T 021 251606. Cheap and
central backpacker digs similar to Mixay , with singles,
triples and dorms. A/c doubles are also availa ble. Expect
some noise from the busy road outside. Double 130,000K
★

MARKETS
Hengboun Road food stalls Hengboun Rd, between
Khoun Boulom Rd and Chao Anou Rd, near Home Ideal. For
cheap, tasty snacks throughout the day and into late evening,
the food carts here serve up good Lao-style khào pûn
(noodles with sauce), tam màk hung and excellent shakes.
Talat Khua Din Just east of the Talat Sao bus station. This
dusty, partially covered market is Vientiane's cheapest
place to buy fruit, vegetables and the like. Come early to
watch locals buying fish and meat. Daily sunrise-sunset.
Vangthong Night Market Along Khoun Boulom Road,
north of the National Stadium. This narrow, food-focused
night market sets up near the bowling alley on Khoun
Boulom Rd in the early evening and stays open till about
10pm, selling fresh fruit, sweet coconut desserts and
ping kai (grilled chicken). Daily sunset to around 10pm.

BREAKFAST, BAKERIES AND CAFÉS
Antique Café Upstairs at Indochina's Handicrafts on
Setthathilat Rd T 021 223528. Above an antique shop,
this tiny café has space for just four or five customers at a
time. With cuckoo clocks, medals and paintings cluttering
the walls, it's an atmospheric spot for an iced Lao coffee
(20,000K). Daily 8.30am-10.30pm.
Joma Bakery Setthathilat Rd, just west of Nam Phou
T 021 215265, W joma.biz. This Canadian-owned café
is Vientiane's answer to the big Western coffee chains -
right down to the free wi-fi - and its decent breakfasts
(from 27,000K) will set you up nicely for a day of tramping
around town. The salads are good too, if a little pricey.
Daily 7am-9pm.
★

Sihome Backpackers 056 Sihom Rd, halfway between
the two petrol stations T 020 9551 2668, W sihome
backpackershostel.com. The most popular place for young
backpackers, with super-cheap bunks, walls covered in
murals and a sociable bar area out front. Dorms here are quite
cramped, but there' s a TV roo m to str etch out in and doubles
are available. Dorm 60,000K , double 280,000K
Syri 2 63/67 Setthathirat Rd T 021 241345, E syri2
@hotmail.com. Aquariums, sculptures and vases clutter
the reception area of this rather odd place with a Chinese-
Lao owner. The rooms are gloomy, but the location is
good and the rates are low. Choose a/c o ver a fan and you'll
pay an extra 50,000K per night. Double 60,000K
Vientiane Backpackers Nokeo Koummane Rd T 020
9748 4227, W vientianebackpackershostel.com. Big, shabby
dorms in a very central location, with all the usual services
on offer, from laundry to bike rental. The rate includes a
simple break fast, free wi-fi and access to a computer in the
lobby. Dorm 40,000K

The Little House Midway along Manthatoulat Rd
T 020 5540 6036, E [e-mail]. It's hard
to spot this cute, Japanese-run coffee house, but your
effort will be rewarded with sublime Lao coffee from the
Bolaven Plateau (from 19,000K). Be sure to also order a
couple of the divine home-made chocolate tru es. Daily
8.30am-6.30pm.
Scandinavian Bakery On the northern edge of Nam
Phou Place T 021 215199, W scandinavianbakerylaos.com.
Vientiane's first European bakery is still going strong, selling
huge sandwiches, traditional Swedish cakes and refreshing