Indonesia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 335

(several daily; 1hr 35min); Singapore (5 weekly; 3hr
30min); Surabaya (daily; 1hr 35min).
By bus Long-distance buses serving Gorontalo, Palu
and Makassar use Terminal Malalayang, about 6km
south along the coast, linked by microlets to the centre
(Rp5000). Buses for the Minahasa Highlands use Terminal
Karombasan, also to the south (microlets Rp5000). Paal
Dua in the east (microlet Rp3500) connects to Bitung.
Buses for Gorontalo leave at about 5.30am; those going
further afield leave around lunchtime.
Destinations Gorontalo (daily; 8hr); Makassar (daily; 2-3
days); Palu (daily; 24hr).
By car For Gorontalo, the more comfortable option is by
kijang (private car). They depart from the PO Garuda o ce
on Jl Kartini ( T 0431 846868; before 10am; Rp125,000-
175,000 depending on seat).
By ferry The regional Pelni ferry port is in Bitung on
the southern coast (Rp7500 from Terminal Paal Dua),
where the nearest Pelni o ce is ( T 0438 135818). Ferries
to Bunaken (Rp50,000) run from the river behind the
warungs at Pasar Bersehati.
Destinations

place in town by a long shot. Most rooms are set along
a pretty garden path leading up to the swimming pool,
which offers superb views over Manado Bay. All rooms
have hot water and a/c, while t here's wi-fi and a good
breakfast buffet in the restaurant. Rp282,000
Rex Jl Sugiono 3 T 0431 851136, W hotelrexmanado
.com. Although it isn't saying much, Rex offers about the
best-value budget rooms in town. The larger, a/c rooms
with attached bathrooms are worth the extra rupiah s
(Rp137,000), while all rooms are very noisy. Rp115,000

EATING AND DRINKING
Minahasan cooking features dog ( rintek wuuk , usually
shortened to rw , or “airvay”), rat ( tikkus ) and fruit bat ( paniki ),
generally unceremoniously stewed with blistering quantities
of chillies.
D'Terrace Jl Pierre Tendean. Across from the McCafe and
behind the Mega Mas Mall, this is the Food City complex's most
atmospheric pick, with candlelit tables and a swanky bar. The
menu offers a range of Manadonese dishes from seafood to
fried duck (Rp40,000). Mon-Sat 9am-4am, Sun 9am-2am.
★

Bunaken (2pm Mon-Sat; 1hr); Makassar
(weekly; 42-78hr).

Green Garden Jl Sam Ratulangi. This huge
establishment, doubling as a church, serves the best
Chinese food in town, with a large menu of tasty dishes
(mains from Rp30,000) served in a friendly, bustling
atmosphere with a choice of fan or a/c seating. Mon-Fri
8am-noon, Sat noon-11pm, Sun noon-midnight.

4

DIVING
Day-trips from the mainland to Bunaken start at around
Rp650,000/person. Safari Tours (see opposite) provide
return transport from your hotel.

DIRECTORY
Banks and exchange There are ATMs all over town. The
best place to change cash is the BCA on Jl Sam Ratulangi.
Hospital The public hospital is 6km south of the city near
Terminal Malalayang ( T 0431 853191).
Immigration Jl 17 Augustus ( T 0431 841688).
Internet Ballecoz Café on Jl Kartini (daily 9am-10pm;
Rp5000/hr, free wi-fi).
Post o ce Jl Sam Ratulangi 21 (Mon-Thurs 8am-3pm,
Fri 8-11am, Sat 8am-noon).

ACCOMMODATION
Celebes Jl Rumambi 8A T 0431 870425, W hotel
celebesmdo.com. This expansive hotel has everything
from tiny singles to luxurious rooms with views over
the harbour, though the cheapest rooms are poky and
windowless and there's a noisy market nearby. Breakfast
and wi-fi in the restaurant. Rp125,000
★

Minahasa Jl Sam Ratulangi 199, 1.5km south of the
centre T 0431 874869, W hotelminahasa.com. The best

THE TARSIERS OF TANGKOKO
A popular trip from Manado is to the Tangkoko National Park , home of the world's smallest
primate, the tarsier . These nocturnal tree-dwelling creatures resemble bush babies or
aye-ayes with their large saucer eyes and long, thin fingers. The beachside forest of Tangkoko
is also home to troops of black macaque, hornbills and cuscus, all of which you should be able
to spot. The park entrance fee (Rp85,000) includes a three-hour guided walk, while there's
also a popular five-hour guided walk starting early each morning (Rp250,000). There's a daily
camera fee of Rp30,000.
Getting to Tangkoko by public transport requires a few changes. Take a microlet from
town to Paal Dua (Rp3500), then a bus to Bitung (Rp20,000). Another microlet will get you to
Girian (Rp5000), where a kijang will take you to Batuputih at the entrance to Tangkoko
(Rp20,000). Alternatively, charters from Manado cost around Rp350,000. There are a handful of
full-board basic homestays opposite the park entrance, among the better options being
Tarsius ( T 0812 4404882; Rp200,000) and Ranger Station ( T 0813 4040 7690; Rp200,000).