Indonesia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 333

ACCOMMODATION
Karina Jl A Yani 28 T 0435 828411. The best-value
accommodation in town, in a conveniently central
position. Smart, sparkling clean and very friendly, it offers
a/c, hot -water show ers, TV and Western-style toilets in all
rooms. Rp150,000
New Melati Jl A Yani T 0435 822934, W newmelatihotel
.com. Remains a favourite among backpackers, with
decent budget rooms set around a pleasant garden
beyond the posh new entrance. All rooms come with worn
bathrooms, and some have a/c (Rp180,000) and hot water
(Rp325,000). Friendly staff are expert at helping wit h
onward travel. Wi-fi and breakfast included. Rp130,000

BOLILANGA
About an hour away from Kadidiri, tiny Bolilanga Island
is relatively un-touristy, the perfect spot if you're after
complete seclusion. There's only one place to stay, and the
owners can arrange a free pick-up from Katupat on Togian
Island if you call ahead. From Wakai, they'll charter a boat
for you for Rp300,000.
Bolilanga Island Resort T 0852 4100 3685,
W bolilangaresort.com. An intimate place offering
fourteen beachfront bungalows with a wonderfully relax-
ing, end-of-the-world feel and good food. Inexpensive
snorkelling and fishing trips are available, and guests
can paddle a smal l boat around the island for free.
Rp200,000/person

EATING
There are plenty of warungs around town, including in the
park in front of the New Melati .
Magic Pan Pizzeria Jl A Yani 55 T 0435 829619. Opened
in 2012, this offers a welcome change for those freshly
arrived from the Togians. Set in attractive, a/c surround-
ings, it serves a range of thin-crust pizzas (medium
Rp50,000), pastas (from Rp35,000) and a few Indonesian
favourites. There's wi-fi, and they deliver (Rp7000). Daily
7am-10pm.

GORONTALO
GORONTALO is a quiet but well-
equipped town, not an unpleasant
place to get stranded should you be
unlucky with Togian boat schedules.
Its streets are laid out on a grid system,
making it easy to navigate. he main
north-south road is Jalan A Yani,
where you'll find ATMs at the BNI
and Danamon banks. Crossing it
east-west is Jalan 23 Januari, with
the post o ce at the junction and the
Pelni o ce a short way further along.
Wi-fi is available at the New Melati
Hotel next to the sportsground. here
are plenty of warungs around, and a
lively night market.

4

MANADO
Capital of Sulawesi Utara, MANADO is
mainly used by travellers as a launching
point for spectacular diving and
snorkelling in the Bunaken Marine
Reserve. You can either base yourself in
Manado and do day-trips to the reefs,
or stay on the island itself, where there
are plenty of accommodation and dive
operators to choose from.
Manado is busy, noisy, hot and in a
permanent state of near-gridlock, but it
also exudes a bustling energy, which can
be refreshing for those feeling deprived
of civilization after a trip to the Togians.
he town's old hub lies in the north,
where you'll find the harbour and the
fresh produce market, Pasar Bersehati,
although in recent years the area's
popularity has been overtaken by the vast
strip of new shopping centres known
collectively as the Manado Boulevard,
stretching south between Jalan Pierre
Tendean and the rapidly expanding
coastline. Microlets, many of which turn
into mobile discos at night - complete
with flashing lights, thumping bass and
sometimes even LCD TVs - swarm along

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By plane Jalaluddin Airport is 32km north of town. A seat
in a shared taxi costs around Rp60,000.
Destinations Makassar (4 daily; 1hr 30min); Manado
(2 daily; 40min).
By bus Terminal Andalas is 3km to the north of town,
Rp10,000 by bentur (motorized rickshaw), with buses to
Manado (daily 6am; 10hr) and Palu (17hr).
By car Faster and more comfortable for the trip to
Manado, kijangs meet ferries arriving from the Togians.
You can also book these at their o ces north past the
bus terminal on Jl Andalas, among them PO Garuda
( T 0435 828343). Tickets are priced according to your
seat (back/front Rp125,000/Rp175,000), and they can pick
you up at your hotel.
By ferry The harbour is a 15min bentur ride from town
(Rp10,000). The Pelni o ce is in town on Jl 23 Januari 31
( T 0435 21089).
Destinations Bitung (monthly; 15hr); Denpasar (monthly;
5 days); Makassar (2 monthly; 72hr).