Indonesia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget

Travel Reference

In-Depth Information

ARRIVAL, DEPARTURE AND

INFORMATION

By bus The bus terminal is 4km northeast of the

town's accommodation hub (ojeks cost Rp5000). There

are daily bemos to Poso (10am; 2hr; Rp25,000), from

where buses connect Ampana (2 daily; 5hr); and night

buses to Rantepao (daily 6pm; 12hr) run by Ketty and

Rappan Marannu.

Information The friendly tourist o ce (daily

7.30am-9pm T 0852 4200 3420, T 0458 215111) is just

east of the new bridge, offering maps and arranging

tours. Good maps and information are also available from

Hotel Victory .

useful. Boats to Wakai (for Kadidiri)

leave from the main port, just north of

Oasis, while boats to Bomba depart from

the port of Labuhan, 3km east near

Marina Cottages.

ACCOMMODATION

Irama Jl RA Kartini 11 T 0464 21055. Just up the road

from Oasis , this losmen is among the cheapest in town,

with friendly staff and basic, somewhat agei ng rooms tha t

come with TVs and are adequate for a night. Rp100,000

Marina Cottages Jl Tanjung Api 33 Labuhan T 0464

21280. Handy for the boats to Bomba, Marina is in

Labuhan, 3km east of the town centre (Rp7000 by ojek).

It has spotless private bungalows, some with a/c

(Rp220,000) and all with terraces facing a black pebble

beach. Staff are helpful, there's wi-fi in the spacious

restaurant and breakfast is included. Rp150,000

Oasis Jl RA Kartini 5 T 0464 21058. Set just 100m from

the port and run by the same management as that of

Kadidiri Paradise , this is the most popular backpacker

hotel in town, with clean, simple rooms set around a

pleasant courtyard. Unfortunately, all but the a/c deluxe

rooms (Rp180,000) suffer from karaoke noise late into

the night . There's w i-fi in the lobby, and breakfast

included. Rp120,000

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

The warungs near the bridges serve the local speciality,

sogili bakar (grilled freshwater eel).

Tandolala Cottages Jl Poros Tentena-Peura Km 3

T 0812 4527 3438, W tandolala-cottages.com. 3km south

of town, this newly built set of private (Rp300,000) and

duplex cottages sits on stilts over the lake, each equipped

with a mosquito net and balcony. Further out on the

water, the restaurant serves set lunches and dinners

(Rp55,000/60,000). Friendly owner Simon has plenty of

helpful advice and c an pick you up from the bus station

with advance notice. Rp200,000

Victory Jl Diponegoro 18 T 0458 21392, W victory

tentena.com. The most popular spot in town, set on a quiet

street not far from the pair of bridges. Rooms are basic and

clean, some with hot water (Rp250,000) and all set around

a small garden. Friendly, English-speaking st aff double a s

excellent guides, leading treks in Lore Lindu. Rp100,000

4

THE TOGIAN ISLANDS

he TOGIAN ISLANDS form a fragmented,

120km-long crescent across the shallow

blue waters of Tomini Bay, their steep

grey sides weathered into sharp ridges

capped by coconut palms and hardwoods.

he exceptional snorkelling and diving

around the islands features turtles, sharks,

octopus, garden eels, and a mixed bag of

reef and pelagic fish species. On the

downside, there are also nine depots in

the Togians dealing in the live export of

seafood to restaurants in Asia; many of

these operations employ cyanide sprays,

which stun large fish but kill everything

else - including coral.

From west to east, Batu Daka , Togian

and Talata Koh are the Togians' three

main islands, with Walea Kodi and Walea

Bahi further east. he main settlements

are Bomba and Wakai on Batu Daka, and

Katupat on Togian. Wakai is something

of a regional hub, with transport out to

smaller islands. here are no vehicle roads

or widespread electricity in the Togians

and you'll find it pays not to be on too