Indonesia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 313

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By plane Tambolaka Airport is a good 1hr 30min north
of town, though like many of Indonesia's smaller airports,
it has a patchy safety record; buses (around Rp15,000)
meet arriving planes. In Pasola season (see box opposite),
flights are more reliable than at other times, but you'll
need to book months in advance. Merpati (Jl Bhayangkara
20; T 0387 21051, W merpati.co.id) has services to
Denpasar and Kupang, and Trans Nusa (Hotel Aloha;
T 0387 22563, W transnusa.co.id) to Ende and Kupang.
Destinations Denpasar (1-3 daily; 1hr 30min); Ende
(3 weekly; 45min); Kupang (1-2 daily; 1hr 30min).
By bus The bus terminal is in the southwest of the town;
bemos also stop here.
Destinations Waingapu (several daily; 4hr 30min);
Waitabula (several daily; 1hr).
By ferry The twice-weekly ferry from Sape in Sumbawa
arrives in Waikelo harbour; buses run to Waikabubak
(1hr 15min). The ferry runs to Sape on Saturdays and
Tuesdays (9-12hr).

Restu Ibu Jl Juanda 1. Long-established restaurant with
a fine reputation, on the way into the old town and
serving Indonesian staples (Rp10,000-20,000). Daily
except Sun 11am-10pm.
★

Warung Jl Lalmentik ends at a T-junction just beyond
Nazareth . Immediately opposite the junction, hidden
behind trees, is a warung serving the best sate and
soups on Sumba, at low prices (less than Rp20,000). Daily
11am-10pm.

DIRECTORY
Banks BRI on Jl A Yani and BNI on Jl Palapa have ATMs
that accept foreign cards; the latter also has the best
rates for cash and travellers' cheques.
Internet There's a 24hr warnet in the market on
Jl Palapa.
Pharmacy Jl Yani, across from the Elvin .
Post o ce Jl Dr Sutomo, in the old town (Mon-Thurs
8am-3pm, Fri 8-11.30am & Sat 8am-1pm).

WAIKABUBAK
Surrounded by lush green meadows
and forested hills, tiny WAIKABUBAK
encloses several kampung with slanting
thatched roofs and megalithic stone
graves , where life proceeds according
to the laws of the spirits. Kampung
Tarung , on a hilltop just west of the
main street, has some excellent
megalithic graves and is regarded as one
of the most significant spiritual centres
on the island. he ratu (king) of Tarung
is responsible for the annual wula padu
ceremony, which lasts for a month at
the beginning of the Merapu New Year
in November. he ceremony
commemorates the visiting spirits of
important ancestors, who are honoured
with animal sacrifices and entertained
by singing and dancing. Kampung
Praijiang is a fine five-tiered village on a
hilltop surrounded by rice paddies,
several kilometres east of town. You can
catch a bemo (around Rp5000) to the
bottom of the hill. Waikabubak enjoys
an extended rainy season lasting well
into May, with daily downpours and
chilly nights. Most things you need in
Waikabubak are either on the main
street of Jalan Sudirman, which
becomes Jalan Bhayangkara, or not far
from it. Ikat traders come from all over
the island to Waikabubak's daily market.

INFORMATION
Tourist information Jl Teratai 1 ( T 0387 21880).
Opening hours are decidedly erratic, but turn up in the
morning and you've got a good chance of getting some
useful information.

4

ACCOMMODATION
For such a small town, the choice of places to stay is
pretty good.
Hotel Aloha Jl Sudirman 26 T 0387 21245. Spotless
rooms, some with a/c, a nd a friendl y welcome at this
laidback family-run hotel. Rp125,000
★

Artha Jl Veteran 11 T 0387 21112. Large rooms set
around a garden courtyard and very helpful, friendly
staff, though they don't speak much English. The best-
value and most popular place in town. Rp170,000
Pelita Jl A Yani 2 T 0387 21104. Renovation and exten-
sion work here means some parts resemble a building
site, but the rooms themselves are quiet and comfort able,
and they're the cheapest option in town. Rp100,000

EATING
As well as those listed below, there are a handful of
warungs scattered around town.
★

Gloria Jl Bhayangkara 46, opposite the petrol station.
Offers an extensive menu of very tasty Indonesian and
Chinese dishes served in generous portions; even the
basics (around Rp20,000-40,000) such as nasi goreng and
soto ayam are full of flavour. Daily 11am-10pm.
Rumah Maken & Café Jl Gajah Mada 35. Something of
a misnomer on both counts as this is really just a large
warung, but the fish is excellent and inexpensive (from
Rp15,000). Daily 11am-10pm.