Indonesia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 310

to/from Kupang, Merpati ( T 0382 21342, W merpati
.co.id) to/from Bali, Labuanbajo and Merauke, Lion Air/
Wings Air ( T 0382 22993, W lionair.co.id) to/from Bali.
Destinations Bali (1-2 daily; 2hr); Kupang (3 weekly;
50min); Labuanbajo (1-2 daily; 1hr 5min); Merauke
(daily; 1hr).
By bus Buses to and from Ende, Moni and other destina-
tions in the west are served by the Ende bus terminal,
several kilometres down Jl Gajah Mada southwest of
town. Bemos run from here to the centre. For onward
travel, note that buses depart from the terminal but
meander around town before leaving.
Destinations Bajawa (daily; 9hr); Ende (several
daily; 5hr); Moni (several daily; 3hr 30min); Ruteng
(daily; 14hr).
By ferry The harbour is at the northern end of town, a
15min walk or quick ojek ride to the centre. Tickets for
Pelni services to Kupang and Makassar can be bought at
the o ce at Jl Sikokoru 2 by the harbour ( T 0382 21013,
W pelni.co.id). A private ferry, the KM Mahkota , runs
passengers every Monday to Surabaya (36hr); tickets can
be bought from the Hotel Benggoan ( T 0382 21041), just
up from the market at Jl Moa Toda 49.
Destinations Kupang (Wed; 12hr); Makassar (Wed; 17hr).
By shared taxi Travels can be arranged by your hotel
and cost around Rp50,000 to Moni.

ON THE COAST
There are a few pleasant beachside options outside
Maumere, all of which offer diving.
Gading Beach Hotel Around 7km outside Maumere
T 0852 3900 4490. These peaceful bungalows are owned
by the same people as the Gardena (see above). Room
rates include transport from Mau mere, and t hey can
organize diving and snorkelling trips. Rp150,000
Sea-World Club Jl Sawista, Waiara T 0382 21570,
W sea-world-club.com. Smart bungalows on a lovely
stretch of beach, about 9km from Maumere. There's a dive
centre (two-dive day-trip $75), numerous tours on offer
and a go od r estaurant. Rates include an airport pick-up/
drop-off. $45

EATING
The harbour is the best place to find seafood, with a
number of places offering grilled fish, priced by weight, for
around Rp40,000/person. There are also some warungs
along the dry riverbed near the harbour, and a supermarket
east of the sports field.
Suroboyo Jl Gajah Mada, opposite the Hotel Wini Rai I.
Serves a wide variety of chicken, beef and seafood dishes,
including some unusual options (around Rp20,000-
30,000) such as lemon chicken. Daily 11am-10pm.
Surya Indah Jl Raja Centis. This padang joint near the
market serves the best beef rendang in town, as well as
good sate soto . Dishes cost Rp10,000-20,000. Daily
11am-10pm.

4

INFORMATION
Tourist information Located south of the stadium
on Jl Wairklau ( T 0382 21652; Mon-Thurs 8am-2pm,
Fri 8-11am), they can provide a map and some local
information.

DIRECTORY
Banks BRI on Jl A Yani and BNI on Jl Sukarno Hatta both
change money and have ATMs.
Internet Flobamora on Jl Sukarno Hatta is open 24hr.
Post o ce Jl A Yani, near the sports field (Mon-Thurs
8am-3pm, Fri & Sat 8am-1pm).

ACCOMMODATION
Maumere itself offers a selection of decent accommoda-
tion, but you may prefer to take advantage of the beaches
and stay out of town, from where you can also go
snorkelling or diving.

Sumba
Sumba is a land of contrasts. he east of
the island is made up of arid grasslands
and limestone plateaux, while the west
is fertile and green, with rolling hills
and a long rainy season. Waingapu , the
capital, is well known for producing the
finest ikat fabric in Indonesia. A little
further out at Rende and Melolo sit
stone tombs with bizarre carvings, and
in other villages on the east coast you'll
find quality weaving, traditional
structures and deserted beaches. he
main town in the west is Waikabubak ,

MAUMERE
Gardena Jl Patirangga 28 T 0382 22644. The
backpacker's stalwart, with good-value if rather frayed
rooms (with fans or a/c) and friendly staff. They may have
a representative at the airport but y ou'll still have to pay
for transport into town. Rp100,000
Maiwali Jl Don Thomas 6 T 0382 21220. The cheapest
and top-end rooms here are good, and all are en suite; the
mid-range rooms are getting a bit tired, but do come with
pleasant porches. Rp110,000
Wini Rai I Jl Gajah Mada 50 T 0382 21388. E ciently run
and friendly, offering a wide range of options for all
budgets. The Wini Rai II , near the market at Jl Soetomo 7
( T 0382 21362), has cheaper rooms at on ly Rp50,000/
person, but they're pretty basic. Rp110,000