Indonesia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 268

Amlapura, Perasi Village & White Sand Beach (Pantai Putih) (2km)

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Shangrila
Scuba Divers

Asri
Shop

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School

Sub Ocean
Bali

FOREST ROAD

Lagoon

Aquarium
Spa

Bali Shangrila
Beach Club

Puri Bagus
Candidasa

EATING AND DRINKING
Aquaria
Bali Bagus
New Queen Pub
Vincent's

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AMED, JEMELUK AND THE FAR
EAST COAST
he stretch of coast in the far east of Bali
from Culik to Aas is known as AMED
although this is just one village here.
Accommodation is mushrooming along
the 11km stretch from Amed to Aas, as
people come here to enjoy the peace and
quiet, the clifftop views of the glorious
coastline and black beaches, and to take
in the stunning underwater attractions.
Access to Amed is from the small
junction village of Culik just over 9km
north of Tirtagangga on the Amlapura-
Singaraja road. In Amed, 3km away, life
centres on fishing and salt production,
which you can see at close quarters. A
kilometre east is the hamlet of Congkang,
then Jemeluk , 6km from Culik, which
attracts divers and snorkellers for the
offshore coral terrace leading to a wall
dropping to a depth of more than 40m.
here's a high density of fish, with sharks,
wrasses and parrotfish in the outer parts.
From Jemeluk lies headland after headland:
the beaches and villages of Bunutan and
Lipah Beach are the most developed areas,
though they remain low-key, leading on to
Lehan Beach, Selang, Ibus, Banyuning and
eventually Aas, almost 15km from Culik.
As well as at Jemeluk, there's excellent
diving at a wreck at Lipah Beach and a
drift dive at Bunutan, with the chance to
see schools of barracuda and giant barrel
sponges. Advanced divers can explore
Gili Selang, the eastern tip of Bali, where
a pristine reef, pelagics and exciting
currents are the draw. Good snorkelling

spots include Jemeluk, the Lipah Beach
wreck and a Japanese wreck near the
coast at Banyuning.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bemo and ojek From Culik, bemos run via Amed to
Aas in the morning; hard bargaining should achieve a
fare of around Rp10,000 to Lipah Beach. Later in the day
you'll need to charter a bemo or ojek (aim for around
Rp30,000/person).
By car or motorbike It's a picturesque 30km from
Amlapura to Aas. Allow at least 90min for the trip. Take
local advice before setting off; rivers cross the road, which
may become impassable in the rainy season.
By shuttle bus Two daily Perama charter services run
from Candi Dasa (minimum two people). Phone the Candi
Dasa o ce to book ( T 0363 41114, W peramatour.com).
Amed Café ( T 0363 23473, W amedcafe.com) near
Jemeluk also operates shuttle buses (2-3 daily; destina-
tions include Padang Bai, Ubud, the southern resorts,
the airport and Lovina).
By boat Kuda Hitam Express ( T 0363 23482, W kuda
hitamexpress.com) runs daily boats between Jemeluk
Beach, all three of the Gili Islands (1-2hr; Rp650,000) and
mainland Lombok (2hr 30min; Rp650,000).

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DIVE OPERATORS
PADI Open Water courses are around $375, and fun dives
cost from $75. Most guesthouses have snorkel gear for
rent (from Rp25,000/day).
Apneista Jemeluk beach T 0813 3830 1158, W apneista
.com. This centre runs freediving courses ($200/two-day
course), as well as yoga and meditation sessions.
Eco-Dive Jemeluk (between Amed Café and Bamboo Bali
losmen ) T 0363 23482, W ecodivebali.com. The staff have
tremendous local knowledge and offer dives for experienced
divers, as well as PADI courses up to Divemaster level in
English, German and French.