Indonesia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 263

However, Besakih has also evolved the
habit of separating foreign tourists from
their money as quickly as possible, which
can make for a frustrating experience.

worth it. If you're in a group, it's more economical to
charter a car and driver for the day (Rp400,000-500,000)
and put together your own itinerary.
By public transport Bemos from Semarapura (also
known as Klungkung) go as far as Menanga from where
there are ojek to the temple car park. In Semarapura
bemos pass through Jl Gunung Rinjani just north of the
main road in the town centre. Bemos also run from
Amlapura via Selat to Rendang, with some going on to
Menanga. Most bemos run in the morning and dry up
in the afternoon. There are no public bemos north of
Menanga to Penelokan.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
he complex consists of more than
twenty separate temples spread over a
site stretching for more than 3km. he
central temple is Pura Penataran Agung ,
the largest on the island, built on seven
ascending terraces, and comprising more
than fifty structures. Start by following
the path just outside Pura Penataran
Agung's wall, and then wander at will:
the meru (multi-tiered shrine roofs)
of Pura Batu Madeg, rising among the
trees to the north, are enticing. Pura
Pengubengan, the most far-flung of
the temples, is a couple of kilometres
through the forest.
Unless you're praying or making
offerings, you're forbidden to enter the
temples, and most remain locked unless
there's a ceremony going on. However, a
lot is visible through the gateways and
over walls. he rule about wearing a
sarong and sash appears to be
inconsistently applied, but you'll
definitely need them if you're in skimpy
clothing; sarong and sash rental are
available, with negotiable prices, but it's
much easier to take your own.
here are huge numbers of local guides
at Besakih hoping to be engaged by
visitors, but you don't need one to explore
the complex; stick to the paths running
along the walls outside the temples, wear
a sarong and sash, and you'll be in no
danger of causing religious offence. If you
do hire a guide, you should use one who
has an o cial guide badge and is wearing
an endek shirt as uniform, and always
establish the fee beforehand; around
Rp20,000 is reasonable. If you're escorted
into one of the temples to receive a
blessing from a priest you'll be expected
to make a “donation” to the priest.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By tour Without your own transport, the easiest way of
getting to Besakih is to take an organized tour, available
from any of the tourist centres (from Rp200,000/person),
but anything offering less than an hour at the temple isn't

INFORMATION
Tourist o ce The tourist o ce (daily 8am-7pm), on the
right just beyond the car park, is, unfortunately, staffed
by guides who will pressure you to make a donation and
engage their services (both are unnecessary). There's a
noticeboard with a map of the complex on the left as you
approach Pura Penataran Agung, beyond all the shops
that line the road up to the temple from the car park.

4

PADANG BAI
PADANG BAI , the port for Lombok,
nestles in a small white-sand cove lined
with fishing boats. Many travellers stay
a night or two and the tiny village has
developed into a laidback resort. Jalan
Silayukti is the main seafront road at the
eastern end of the bay, while all the small
roads leading from the seafront to the
road across the top of the village are
named, from west to east, Jalan Segara 1,
Jalan Segara 2 and so on.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
If you find the main beach too busy, head
to the bay of Bias Tugal (also known as
Pantai Kecil), to the west, which is
quieter; follow the road past the post
o ce and, just as it begins to climb, take
the roadway to the left. East over the
headland from the main beach, if you
take the left fork for a couple of hundred
metres beyond the beachside Topi Inn,
you reach the white-sand cove of Blue
Lagoon, where there's the best snorkelling
in the area and a few laidback cafés.
Several places in Padang Bai rent out
snorkelling equipment (around
Rp30,000-50,000 per day); the water in
the main bay is surprisingly clear, but the
currents can be strong here. here's also