Indonesia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 259

(the Moon Temple) houses the Moon of
Pejeng, a beautifully etched 2m-long
hourglass-shaped bronze gong that
probably dates from the third century
BC. Nearby Pura Pusering Jagat is
famous for its elaborately carved 1m-high
fourteenth-century stone water jar, while
the focus of Pura Kebo Edan (Crazy
Buffalo Temple) is the 4m-high fertility
statue of the Pejeng Giant, complete with
massive lifelike phallus. To reach Pejeng
from Ubud, take a Gianyar-bound bemo
to the Bedulu crossroads and then either
wait for a Tampaksiring-bound one, or
walk 1km to the temples.

Perama runs buses to the island's main tourist destinations
and Lombok. Tickets are also available from the tourist
o ce and some travel agencies.
Destinations Bedugul (daily; 1hr 30min); Candi Dasa

(3 daily; 1hr 30min-2hr); Gili Islands (daily; 8hr);
Kintamani (daily; 45min); Kuta/Ngurah Rai Airport (5-6
daily; 1hr-1hr 30min); Lovina (daily; 1hr 30min-2hr);
Nusa Lembongan (daily; 2hr 30min); Padang Bai (3 daily;
1hr-1hr 30min); Sanur (5 daily; 30min-1hr); Senggigi
(Lombok; 2 daily; 7hr 30min-11hr 30min).

INFORMATION AND TOURS
Tourist information The o ce on Jl Raya (daily
8am-8pm; T 0361 973285) has dance performance
schedules and details of festivals, runs inexpensive day-
trips and sells shuttle-bus tickets. It also dishes out the
free Ubud Community booklet. If you're planning to do
any local walks or cycle rides, buy the Bali Pathfinder map
(Rp50,000) from any bookshop. The website W ubud.com
has news, entertainment and restaurant listings.
Walking, trekking and cycling tours Guided cultural
walks and sunrise volcano treks with Keep Walking Tours,
c/o Bali Spirit, Jl Hanoman 44B ( T 0361 970581, W bali
spirit.com/tours). Sunrise treks up Gunung Batur and
Gunung Agung with Bali Sunrise Tours, Jl Raya Tegalalang
88 ( T 0818 552669, W balisunrisetours.com).

Gunung Kawi
Hewn from the rocky walls of the lush,
enclosed valley of the sacred Pakrisan
River, the eleventh-century royal candi
(tomb-style memorials) at Gunung Kawi
(daily 8am-5.30pm; Rp15,000) occupy
a lovely, impressive spot and don't get
many visitors. hey're signed about
400m north of Tampaksiring's bemo
terminus (served by Gianyar-Bedulu-
Tampaksiring bemos).

4

GETTING AROUND
Bemos You can use the public bemos for short hops
around the area (around Rp5000): for Campuhan/
Sanggingan, just flag down any bemo heading west, such
as the turquoise ones going to Payangan.
Bicycle rental From Rp30,000/day from numerous
street-side outlets along Jl Monkey Forest.
Car and motorbike rental Numerous places on Jl
Monkey Forest rent out motorbikes (from Rp50,000/day)
and cars (from Rp180,000/day). Reputable car rental, plus
optional third-party insurance, from Ary's Business and
Travel Service ( T 0361 973130, W [e-mail])
on Jl Raya.
Transport touts and drivers There are no metered
taxis, so you need to negotiate with the ubiquitous
transport touts. Expect to pay around Rp20,000-30,000
for local rides on a motorbike, a bit more in a car.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By plane Taxis to/from the airport charge around
Rp200,000-300,000; shuttle buses cost around Rp50,000.
By bemo Bemos serving the east and south arrive and
depart from the central market on Jl Raya; north- and
westbound bemos leave from just round the corner on
Jl Monkey Forest. Services operate at least every 30
minutes from about 6am until around 2pm (though can be
sporadic at times), then every hour or so until about 5pm.
For some destinations south, west and on to Java you'll
need to change in Denpasar. For Padang Bai (for Lombok)
and Candi Dasa change in Gianyar.
Destinations Campuhan/Sanggingan (yellow; 5-10min);
Denpasar (Batubulan terminal; chocolate brown or light
blue; 50min) via Peliatan (5min) and Sukawati (30min);
Gianyar (turquoise or orange; 20min) via Goa Gajah
(10min); Kintamani (brown or bright blue; 1hr).
By shuttle bus Perama shuttle buses stop at the
incoveniently located o ce at the southern end of Jl
Hanoman in Padang Tegal, about 750m from the bottom
of Jl Monkey Forest and 2.5km from the central market
( T 0361 973316, W peramatour.com). There are no local
bemos or metered taxis from this inconvenient spot, so
you'll either have to negotiate a ride with a transport tout,
or walk. Independent shuttle-bus operators (from Kuta or
Lovina, for example) may drop you off more centrally.

ACCOMMODATION
Accommodation on the lanes around Jl Monkey Forest
is both central and peaceful. Peliatan, Penestanan,
Campuhan/Sanggingan and Nyuhkuning have better
views but are more remote.

CENTRAL UBUD AND PADANG TEGAL
Artja Inn Jl Kajeng 9 T 0361 971876; map p.259. Classic,
peaceful losmen offering a handful of rustic but pleasant