Indonesia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 254

PURA TANAH LOT
Dramatically marooned on a craggy,
wave-lashed rock just off the coast about
30km northwest of Kuta, Pura Tanah Lot
(daily sunrise-sunset; Rp30,000) is Bali's
most photographed sight. Framed by
frothing white surf and glistening black
sand, its elegant multi-tiered shrines have
become Bali's uno cial symbol and
attract huge crowds of visitors every day,
particularly around sunset. Unfortunately
this has brought all the joys of tourism
with it, and now the temple sits against a
background of stalls and overenthusiastic
hawkers. he temple is said to have been
founded in the sixteenth century by the
wandering Hindu priest Nirartha and is
one of the most holy places on Bali. Only
bona fide devotees are allowed to climb
the stairway carved out of the rock face
and enter the compounds; everyone else
is confined to the base of the rock.
Although there are occasional bright-
blue bemos from Denpasar's Ubung
terminal direct to Tanah Lot, you'll
probably have to go via Kediri , 12km east
of the temple on the main Denpasar-
Tabanan road. All Ubung (Denpasar)-
Gilimanuk bemos drop passengers at
Kediri bemo terminal (about Rp5000;
30min), where you should change on to
a Kediri-Tanah Lot bemo (more frequent
in the morning; about Rp5000; 25min).
Alternatively, join one of the numerous
tours to Tanah Lot that operate out of all
major tourist resorts.

overlooking th e sea are am ong the best budget options
in Jungutbatu. Rp200,000
Pondok Baruna T 0812 390 0686, W world-diving.com.
The basic fan rooms overlooking the beach are small
but prettier than some of the other budget options in
Jungutbatu. The more expensive a/c bungalows surrounding
an inviting pool at the back are decked out with marble
tiles and heavy wooden furniture, and are worth the extra
splurge (Rp650,000). Rate s include br eakfast. World Diving
Lembongan is based here. Rp250,000
Secret Garden T 0813 5313 6861, W bigfishdiving.com.
Charming British-run hideaway with simple but comfy
bungalows, a good pool, movie nights, yoga classes and
a decent dive centre. Rp200,000
Suka Nusa T 0878 60023778, E [e-mail].
These simple but elegant two-storey lumbung (traditional
thatched rice-barn) bungalows are built around a small
pool and have outd oor bathroom s and huge verandas for
gazing over the sea. Rp350,000
Tarci Bungalows T 0812 390 6300, W tarcibungalows
.com. Next to Linda Bungalows, this hotel has an excellent
beachfront location, pool, restaurant and two classes of
room: the simple standard class overlook the garden,
while the smarter deluxe optio ns have sea v iews and TVs;
both have a/c. Standard double Rp250,000

4

COCONUT BEACH
★

Morin Lembongan T 0361 746 2258. Set back on
cliffs in the southern part of the island, these four quiet,
sturdy bungalo ws offer st unning views over Coconut
Beach. Glorious. Rp450,000

EATING AND DRINKING
Most hotels have restaurants (mostly open daily 8am-
10pm) right on the beach; some can be pricey for what
you get.
Pondok Baruna Jungutbatu. All the food (mains from
around Rp40,000) here is good, but if you like it hot, their
ikan pepes (fish with chilli, coconut and Balinese spices
cooked in banana leaf ) and Baruna curry are especially
recommended; the excellent fruit lassis are a great
accompaniment.
Scallywags Sunset Beach W scallywagsresort.com.
Excellent spot for drinkers and diners alike, with inventive
sandwiches, authentic tapas, barbecued steaks and
seafood and hard-to-get imported tipples such as draught
Kilkenny (Rp70,000/pint).

SOUTHWEST SURF BEACHES
West of Tabanan, the Denpasar-
Gilimanuk coast road passes a couple of
appealingly low-key black-sand surf
beaches, both of them served by
Denpasar (Ubung)-Gilimanuk bemos.
he current can be severe all along this
coast, so check locally before swimming.
About 26km west of Tabanan, the
village of Lalang Linggah gives access to
the austere black sand of Balian beach,
which is known for its consistent surf
breaks. Balian Segara Homestay
( T 0819 1645 6147; Rp150,000) has
four simple, concrete en-suite bungalows
above the surf.

DIRECTORY
Banks and exchange There are no ATMs. Several places
offer cash advances for a hefty commission.
Hospitals and clinics Contact the health centre ( klinik )
in Jungutbatu through your accommodation.
Internet Most hotels and restaurants offer free wi-fi.