Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
area. Bargain hard. For a one-stop shop, head to the huge
hypermarket-style store, Bintang Pusat Belanja on Jl Raya
Seminyak 17 (daily 8am-10pm).
Spas and massage Jari Menari, Jl Raya Basangkasa 47,
Seminyak, is one of the area's best spas ( T 0361 736740,
W jarimenari.com; massages from Rp280,000.
Yoga Several hostels and hotels offer inexpensive yoga
sessions. Alternatively, try Seminyak Yoga Shala ( T 0361
730498; classes Rp120,000), next to Jari Menari on JI Raya
Basangkasa, which offers daily ashtanga and hatha classes,
or the friendly Bikram Yoga (Jl Patih Jelatik, Istana Kuta
Galleria Block VL 12 T 0361 769100, W bikrambali.com;
drop-in classes Rp145,000), Bali's only Bikram studio.
with budget accommodation nestled into
the cliff face and seafood warungs on the
sand. he Temple Lodge ( T 0857 3901
1572, W thetemplelodge.com) at the top
of the cliff offers food, drink, yoga classes
and massage, as well as rooms (see
p.254). Balangan Beach to the north has
a long stretch of sand, dotted with sun
umbrellas and loungers for rent, with
plenty of backpacker accommodation
and budget restaurants. Impossibles, to
the south of Bingin, is another small surf
beach, while the break at Padang Padang
is considered to be one of the most
exciting in Indonesia. Accommodation
lines the roadside close to both of these
spots. Nearby SULUBAN is the location of
the world-famous Uluwatu surf breaks .
THE BUKIT
Just south of Kuta, southern Bali bulges
out into the Bukit (“hill”), a harsh,
infertile limestone plateau whose craggy
coastline challenges surfers with its
world-class breaks, most famously at
Uluwatu and Padang Padang. Where
once only hardcore wave-riders would
endure the potholed tracks to get to its
secluded little surf beaches , increasing
numbers of backpackers are now
following suit as the roads are improved
and tiny hotels are hollowed out of the
clifftops, often accessible only via steep
rock-cut steps. Take local advice on where
it's safe to swim as currents can be
treacherous round here.
here's almost no public transport on the
Bukit, so you'll need to rent a car or bike
from Kuta or take a taxi (from around
Rp125,000-150,000, if you bargain
hard); to get to the beaches, simply follow
signs for the temple, Pura Luhur Uluwatu,
at Bali's southwesternmost point, until
directed otherwise.
Pura Luhur Uluwatu
Revered since the tenth century as one of
Bali's most important temples, Pura Luhur
Uluwatu (daily sunrise-sunset; Rp20,000
including sarong rental) commands a
superb position on a rocky promontory
70m above the foaming surf, at the far
southwestern tip of Bali, 2km south of
Suluban and 18km from Kuta. As a
directional temple, or kayangan jagat , Pura
Luhur Uluwatu is the guardian of the
southwest and is dedicated to the spirits of
the sea; it's also a state rather than a village
temple and so has influence over all the
people of Bali. Despite this, the temple
structure itself lacks magnificence, being
relatively small, and its greyish-white coral
bricks are for the most part unadorned.
Most tourists come here at sunset, when
the setting is at its most dramatic and
there's a performance of the Kecak and Fire
Dance (daily 6-7pm; Rp80,000).
4
Surf beaches
he first of the main surf beaches is
Dreamland , with its gloriously white
sands; it is home to a monstrous hotel
complex and condo project, popular with
domestic tourists, which has replaced the
warungs and surfer accommodation of
the past. Access to the beach is via the
ostentatious entrance to the Pecatu Indah
development. Fast developing into the
liveliest of the Bukit surf beaches, nearby
Bingin enjoys the same great coastal
scenery and a more laidback surfer vibe,
ACCOMMODATION
There's no shortage of budget accommodation on the Bukit.
Flowerbud Bungalows Balangan T 0828 367 2772,
W flowerbudbalangan.com. Rightly popular, family-run
place in a great cliff-top location. The lovely bungalows
sleep up to five people and are set in t ranquil grou nds,
which also feature a pool and restaurant. Rp300,000
The Gong Suluban roadside T 0361 769976, E thegong
acc@yahoo.com. This chilled and friendly surfers' favourite
has six fan-cooled rooms, rents scooters and surfboards,
and sells w arung-style food and travellers' breakfasts.
Rp200,000
 
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