Indonesia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 224

PARAPAT
Sprawled along the eastern shores of
Danau Toba, the bustling town of
PA R A PAT offers wonderful views across
the lake. It's used primarily as a stopover,
with most visitors staying just long
enough to catch the ferry to Samosir.
Perched at a pleasant 900m above sea
level, the town is divided in two - the
resort , crammed with ageing hotels and
souvenir shops by the water, and the
commercial sector to the east, in the hills
away from the lake.

you'll come to the first couple of broken
steps - little more than concrete strips in
the ground at this stage. As you follow the
steps, you'll descend through a forest and
pass a grove of bamboo before emerging
at a geothermal plant. Below this is a
series of hot springs (Rp5000) - a great
reward for a hard trek.
Afterwards, angkots leave occasionally
for Berastagi (Rp8000; last one departs
5pm); otherwise you'll have to continue
along the road for several kilometres to
the junction with the main road and pick
one up from there (Rp4000).

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By bus Buses arriving in Parapat drive through the resort
to Tigaraja harbour before heading back to the bus station,
2km east of town. Frequent opelets connect the harbour
with the bus station (Rp3000).
Destinations

Gunung Sinabung
Indonesia's latest volcanic surprise,
Gunung Sinabung rumbled to life with a
dramatic eruption in 2010 that came after
several centuries of silence, killing two
people and forcing 30,000 to evacuate.
Several years later, beginning in September
2013, more eruptions rocked the region,
forcing over 20,000 to evacuate as of
January 2014, ejecting 9km-high ash
plumes and causing disruption as far afield
as Medan, where visibility was reduced to
just 20m. At the time of writing, the
highest level of alert was still in place.
he roughly eight-hour return hike to
the summit begins beside a restaurant to
the north of Danau Kawar (Rp5000
hiking fee). Continue through cabbage
fields for approximately an hour before
entering fairly thick jungle, after which
the hike becomes relentlessly tough.
Having left the jungle, you soon find
yourself scrambling up some steep and
treacherous rocky gullies. A couple of
hours later, you'll be standing on the edge
of a cliff looking down into Gunung
Sinabung's pair of craters. Take care when
walking around up here, as the paths are
crumbling and it's a long way down. A
guide is highly recommended for this trip.
To reach Danau Kawar, take either a
bus (Rp10,000; hourly departures from
the bus station starting 7.30am; 45min)
or taxi (Rp350,000 return for up to seven
people, including the driver's long wait
by the lake). Unless you're super in-shape,
the latter option is recommended as the
last bus from Danau Kawar heads back to
town at 4pm.

Berastagi (5hr; via Siantar 1hr 15min) and
Kabenjahe (3hr), from which buses link Berastagi until 8pm
(25min); Bukittinggi (3 daily; Rp190,000/220,000 for a/c;
16hr); Medan (every 45min; Rp35,000; 5hr); Padang (2
daily; Rp220,000/250,000 for a/c; 18hr); Sibolga (daily; 6hr).
By private minibus or car Private tourist transport
services are faster, have a/c and break down much less
often. Call to book ahead during high season. The
following are clustered beside Tigaraja harbour: Bagus Taxi
( T 0813 6130 1344 or T 0813 6239 7309), Tobali Tour
( T 0625 41103) and Raja Taxi Trans ( T 0852 7005 5172).
All charge roughly the same: Bukittinggi (Rp270,000;
13hr); Berastagi (Rp120,000; 4hr); Bukit Lawang
(Rp160,000; 7hr); Medan (Rp80,000; 4hr 30min).
By ferry Daily ferries connect Tigaraja harbour with Tuk
Tuk on Pulau Samosir (hourly in each direction, departing
from Tigaraja 8.30am-7pm; departing from Tuk Tuk
7am-5.30pm; Rp10,000; 30min). Arriving in Tuk Tuk,
ferries usually stop at several quays around the peninsula:
name your chosen hotel and you'll be instructed where
to disembark. When leaving Tuk Tuk, wave down a ferry
from any hotel's quay.

4

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
There are several budget hotels right around the harbour
and plenty of cheap rumah makan along Jl Haranggaol.
Charlie's Jl Pekan Tiga Raja 7 T 0821 6622 3027. Situated
on the market square next to the ferry terminal, Charlie's is
run by a local music legend with loads of information on the
area. If you're lucky he'll share his ballads of Danau Toba.
Windowless rooms in the back are gloomy; the ones in front
are slightly better. There's a small sitt ing area o verlooking
the market, a simple menu and wi-fi. Rp80,000
Hong Kong Jl Haranggaol 9-11. Still the busiest place
in town, with spotless surroundings and a comprehensive