Indonesia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 202

Internet Wi-fi is available in some restaurants and cafés
as well as in Solo Grand Mall; internet cafés around town
charge Rp6000/hr.
Police Station Jl Slamet Riyadi 376 T 0271 740683 or
T 0271 713003. Dial T 110 for emergencies.
Post o ce Jl Jend Sudirman (daily 6am-10pm).
Shopping Pasar Triwindu (daily 9am-4pm), an antique
market set a block south of Pura Mangkunegaran, with a
wide range of old trinkets, from porcelain pieces to brass
batik stamps to car parts. Meanwhile, set just to the north
of Kasunanan Palace is Pasar Klewer (daily 10am-4pm),
one of Indonesia's largest textile markets; some of the best
bargains can be found here. More upmarket batik galleries
are numerous in Solo, one of the best-known being
Wuryaningratan Gallery on Jl Slamet Riyadi 261 ( T 0271
713140; daily 9am-3pm).

will find the oldest and most famous
mosque in Surabaya, Mesjid Ampel ,
originally erected in 1421. he whole
kampung - bounded by Jalan
Nyanplungan, Jalan KH Mas Mansur,
Jalan Sultan Iskandar Muda and Jalan
Pabean Pasar - was originally settled by
Arab traders and sailors who arrived in
Kali Mas harbour more than five hundred
years ago. Resembling an Arab souk, its
maze of tidy, well-kept alleyways is
crammed cheek by jowl with stalls selling
flowers, dates, shawls, beads, perfumes,
prayer caps and headscarves. Dress
conservatively when visiting the area.

House of Sampoerna
Whether or not you're a fan of kreteks,
the House of Sampoerna on Jl Taman
Sampoerna 6 (daily 9am-10pm; free;
T

SURABAYA
Chaotic, noisy and sweltering, SURABAYA
is Indonesia's second-largest city and the
major port of East Java. Although to most
tourists it's little more than a place to
switch buses or trains between Yogya and
Bromo, Surabaya isn't without its charms.
Dubbed the “City of Heroes,” the city is
heralded among Indonesians as the
birthplace of the national independence
movement, and its leafy boulevards are
lined with statues and monuments
honouring that heritage. Rich in contrasts
and diversity, modern Surabaya boasts
bazaars, mega-malls, chic cafés and ancient
relics as well as some of the country's most
colourful ethnic minority quarters.

031 353 9000, W houseofsampoerna
.museum), a museum near both the
Chinese Quarter and the Qubah, makes
a worthwhile stop. his stately Dutch
compound, recently restored and opened
to the public, was built in 1862 and later
transformed into one of Indonesia's
biggest kretek cigarette factories. It once
employed 2900 workers rolling 325
cigarettes each per hour, though there are
far fewer workers around today. If you
come during working hours, you can
glimpse the workers hand-rolling the
ever-popular Dji Sam Soe.

4

Downtown
Near the city centre, you can take a walk
through the steel belly of Kapal Selam
Monument on Jalan Pemuda 39 (daily
8am-10pm; Rp5000; T 031 549 0410),
a Russian-built submarine acquired by
the Indonesian Navy. Up the street is the
Joko Dolog, an ancient Buddha statue of
dubious origin set just south of Taman
Apsari Park , across from the governor's
residence on Jalan Pemuda.
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
By plane Visas are available on arrival at Surabaya's
Juanda International Airport ( T 031 298 6343), 18km
south of the city. No public bus connects with the town
centre directly, but DAMRI buses connect with Purabaya
bus station (every 15min; Rp15,000), from where the
#P1 service (Rp4000) connects with the city centre at the

WHAT TO SEE AND DO
Surabaya's Chinese quarter hums with
activity, an abundance of traditional
two-storey shophouses line its narrow
streets, and minuscule red-and-gold altars
glint in shops and houses. he area centres
on Jalan Slompretan, Jalan Bongkaran
and the part of Jalan Samudra southwest
of the three-hundred-year-old Hok Teck
Hian Temple on Jalan Dukuh. he temple
itself is a vibrant place with several tiny
shrines spread over two floors, and
Buddhist, Confucian and Hindu e gies.

Kampung Arab
North of the Chinese quarter is the most
interesting part of Surabaya - Kampung
Arab or Qubah , the Arab area. Here you