Indonesia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 196

guided tour Rp75,000). You may also
purchase a package ticket for both
Borobudur and Prambanan (adult/
student Rp320,000/160,000).

Built in 800 AD, Mendut was restored at
the end of the nineteenth century. he
exterior is unremarkable, but the three
giant statues sitting inside - of Buddha
and the Bodhisattvas Avalokitesvara and
Vajrapani - are exquisitely carved and
startling in their intricacy.

The stupa
Unlike most temples, Borobudur was not
built as a dwelling for the gods, but rather
as a representation of the Buddhist cosmic
mountain, Meru. Accordingly, at the base
is the real, earthly world, a world of
desires and passions, and at the summit is
nirvana. hus, as you make your way
around the temple passages and slowly
spiral to the summit, you are symbolically
following the path to enlightenment.
he first five levels - the square terraces
- are covered with three thousand reliefs
representing man's earthly existence. As you
might expect, the lowest, subterranean level
has carvings depicting the basest desires,
best seen at the southeast corner. he reliefs
on the first four levels above ground cover
the beginning of man's path to
enlightenment. Each of the ten series (one
on each level on the outer wall and one on
the inner wall) tells a story, beginning by
the eastern stairway and continuing
clockwise. Follow all the stories, and you
will have circled the temple ten times - a
distance of almost 5km. Buddha's own
path to enlightenment is told in the upper
panels on the inner wall of the first gallery.
As you enter the fifth level , the walls fall
away to reveal a breathtaking view of the
surrounding fields and volcanoes. You are
now in the Sphere of Formlessness, the
realm of enlightenment: below is the chaos
of the world, above is nirvana, represented
by a huge empty stupa almost 10m in
diameter. Surrounding this stupa are 72
smaller ones, most of which are occupied
by statues of Buddha.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
Most choose to see the site on a day-trip from Yogya, with
plenty of agencies offering all-inclusive tours (from
Rp75,000); these are only slightly more expensive than
reaching the sites by public transport, which involves
multiple changes. Motorbike rental is a cheaper option
(Rp50,000), allowing the freedom to explore the scenic
countryside around Borobudur.
By bus Numerous buses depart from Yogya's Giwangan
Station and call in at Jombor bus station (handy for Jl Sosro,
connected by Trans Yogya 2A) before heading off to
Borobudur village bus station (1hr-1hr 30min; Rp15,000,
although tourists are generally asked for Rp20,000-25,000);
your bus may stop briefly in Muntilan. The entrance to the
temple lies about 750km southwest of the bus stop, and the
last bus back to Yogya leaves Borobudur around 6pm. 4

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Most people who stay in Borobudur overnight choose to
eat in their hotel, though there are a couple of inexpensive
Padang places and the usual warungs opposite the
entrance to the temple grounds.
Lotus II Jl Balaputradewa 54 T 0293 788845, W facebook
.com/lotusguesthouse. Owned by the family that runs
Lotus Guesthouse , the popular sequel is set slightly further
from the temple and has larger rooms with hot water,
some featuring patios and balconies overlooking the rice
fields. Internet is available in the lobby and friendly staff
provide excellent local information. Be prep ared for an
early wake-up call from the mosque next door. Rp200,000
Lotus Guesthouse Jl Medang Kamulan 2 T 0293 788281.
This old stalwart, set near the temple entrance, is looking a
little worse for wear, though rooms are cheap and su ciently
clean. The better ones have hot water (Rp200, 000), and there
are great views from the rooftop. Rp100,000
Rajasa Jl Badrawati 2 T 0293 788276, E ariswara_sutomo
@yahoo.com. Just south of the temple, this peaceful hotel
has beautiful views over the rice fields and the Menora Hills
in the distance, although the beds are a little lu mpy. Rooms
with hot water and a/c available for Rp400,000. Rp200,000

Candi Mendut
Originally Borobudur was part of a chain
of four temples joined by a sacred path.
Two of the other three temples have been
restored, and at least one, Candi Mendut
(daily 7am-5pm; Rp3300), 3km east of
Borobudur, is worth visiting. Buses
between Yogya and Borobudur drive right
past Mendut (Rp8000 from Yogya, 1hr
20min; Rp3000 from Borobudur, 10min).

THE PRAMBANAN PLAIN
Nourished by the volcanic detritus of
Mount Merapi and washed by
innumerable small rivers, the verdant