Cambodia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 113

ACCOMMODATION
Backpacker Pad Between the town centre and Boeung
Kansaing T 092 785 259, E banlungbackpackerpad
@yahoo.com. On a dusty back road between town and
lake, this is Banlung's last resort for die-hard budget
travellers, with super-cheap accommodation in poky little
windowless box rooms (en suite for an extra $1) or an even
cheaper dorm. Plus points include the free wi-fi and pool
table, and it's also a go od place to arr ange trips, bus tickets
and bike rental. Dorm $2 , double $4
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volcanic eruption many thousands of
years ago. It's a 3km walk around the
beautiful lakeside path, through stands of
bamboo and dense green forest, the
tranquillity interrupted only by the
occasional bird call. A swim in the clean,
turquoise waters is a good way to cleanse
yourself of the penetrating dust from
Banlung's red dirt roads. 2

Phnom Svay
On the western edge of Banlung, the
easy ten-minute climb up Phnom Svay ,
behind the pretty Wat Eisay Patamak , is
well worth it for the glorious views of the
O Traw Mountains. All of this is lost on
the 5m-long Reclining Buddha, which
lies at the summit, his eyes closed.

Tree Top Eco Lodge T 012 490333, W treetop
-ecolodge.com. Banlung's most original place to stay,
with accommodation in bungalows scattered across a
thickly wooded hillside and connected by a picturesque
network of raised walkways. The bungalows themselves
(all en suite, fan only) are fairly basic, although the stone-
pebbled bathrooms are a nice touch. More expensive ones
have hot water, and some also have nice balconies with
hammocks to loll in. There's also a restaurant and free
wi-fi, a nd staff can arrange tours and onward travel.
Double $7
Tribal West of the centre T 075 650 8555, W tribalhotel
.ekhmerbuys.com. Long-running Banlung institution,
although now somewhat past its best. The wood-
panelled rooms are spacious but a bit gloomy (and
could be cleaner), although perfectly OK for the price
(a/c $12). The attractive attached restaurant is a major
plus, a nd staff can also sort out transport and tours.
Double $7
Yaklom Hill Lodge 6km east of town, beyond the Hill
Tribe Monument T 011 790510, W yaklom.blogspot.co
.uk. For real isolation this eco-resort is hard to beat, with
fifteen stilted wooden bungalows dotted amid jungly
grounds. Rooms (fan only) are simply but nicely furnished,
although there are communal show ers o nly, and the
electricity goes off nightly at 9pm. B&B $15

The waterfalls
East of Banlung the countryside is dotted
with a trio of impressive waterfalls:
Ka Chhang and Katieng (roughly 4km
from Banlung), and Chha Ong (8km
from Banlung). At Chha Ong , water
sprays from a rock overhang into a small
jungle clearing. here's nowhere to swim,
but brave visitors shower under the
smaller column of water. Ka Chhang and
Katieng are pretty but rather less
impressive, although elephants are
available for short rides (around $10/hr).
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE
All road transport arrives at the transport stop near the
market; National Route 78 from the junction at O Pong Moan
just south of Stung Treng has been upgraded and is now in
superb condition (although the road between Kratie and
O Pong Moan is in contrastingly poor nick). Hotel and guest-
houses are the best places for sorting out onward transport.
Share taxis and pick-ups ($3) make the trip between Banlung
and Voen Sai (1hr) from the transport stop when full.
By bus There are very few buses to or from Banlung -
most transport is by minibus or shared taxi.
Destinations Kompong Cham (1 daily; 6hr); Kratie (1 daily;
4hr); Phnom Penh (1 daily; 9-10hr).
By share taxi and minibus Transport goes to Stung
Treng ($7) and then on to Kratie (another $6).
Destinations Kratie (4hr); Stung Treng (2hr).
By motorbike Some intrepid travellers are biking around
this corner of the country. It's the only way of getting
to Sen Monorom from Banlung (9hr) - dry season only.
You can rent a bike or hire a driver; enquire at Treetop Eco
Lodge or local tour operators.

TREAT YOURSELF
Terres Rouges Lodge Boeung Kansaing
T 012 770650, W ratanakiri-lodge.com.
Luxurious guesthouse in lush gardens
near the lake. The lodge's wooden
buildings look a bit like a miniature
Khmer village given a chic modern
makeover, with standard rooms in the
main building, plus more luxurious
accommodation in private bungalows
arranged around a beautiful garden.
Rooms (all a/c) are individually decorated
with traditional fabrics and artefacts.
There's also a good restaurant and a
decent- size d pool, plus a small spa.
Double $52

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