Cambodia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget - page 107

Rikitikitavi Along the riverfront T 017 306557. Splash
out on Khmer or Western mains such as fish and chips
($5.75), sit on the polished wood patio and admire the
gorgeous views. Also does take-away sandwiches and a
great apple pie ($3). Daily 7am-10pm.
Rusty Keyhole Along the riverfront T 012 679607. One
of the busiest places in town, with cheap and tasty salads
and sandwiches ($2-4), plus Premier League football on
TV. Daily 11.30am-10pm.

TREAT YOURSELF
Veranda Natural Resort T 036 6388588,
W veranda-resort.com. Located on the hill
behind the town, this stylish complex of
bungalows connected by elevated
wood-and-stone walkways offers a range
of sophisticated rooms. The sea-facing bar,
restaurant and gorgeous pool ($7) are
wort h vis iting even if you're not staying
here. $70

★

2

KEP
Some 25km southeast of Kampot,
KEP itself may not have much of a beach,
but its breezy seaside character and
palm-shaded walks are seductive
nonetheless. he town is renowned
throughout Cambodia for its delicious,
inexpensive seafood, freshly plucked from
the ocean. he town was comprehensively
destroyed by the Khmer Rouge, and is
therefore littered with empty pre-war
colonial mansions, which can give it a
slightly ghostly feeling. Kep is a firm
favourite with Khmer tourists who
descend on the weekend, attracted by the
relaxed, Riviera-style atmosphere and
excellent accommodation.
Approaching Kep from Kampot, you'll
go past the food stalls, round the
headland and see the large Vietnamese
island of Phu Quoc rising offshore in the
Gulf of hailand. he sovereignty of the
island is still bitterly disputed, and on
Kep Beach a white statue of a woman
looks towards the island, as if yearning
for the day when it will be returned
to Cambodia.
Highlights of a trip to Kep include
exploring the lush national park (4000
riel) rearing up behind the town, and a
boat tour to one of the nearby islands.
One such is quaint Koh Tonsay (“Rabbit
Island”), whose tranquil stretch of
palm-fringed beach is perfect for a day
or two of relaxation. Boat trips can be
arranged at any of the guesthouses in Kep
or Kampot, or down on the beach in Kep
(from $7 or $25 for a private charter).
here are rustic bamboo cottages on the
beach where you can stay for $5, and
plenty of local families to cook for you.
here are almost no streetlights in Kep,
so bring a torch.

OUT OF TOWN
Arcadia 7km north of town T 012 560164, W arcadia
backpackers.com. Well worth the hike, this isolated hostel
- formerly known as Utopia - with dorms, rooms and
stilted huts, is a chilled backpackers' joint with friendly
owners and regular weekend parties. Activities include
tubing, canoeing and volleyb all , and th ere's a rope swing
and a sliver of a beach. Dorm $3 , double $10
★

Bodhi Villa 2km north of town, on the west side of the
river T 012 728884, W bodhivilla.com. An Aussie-run,
backpackers' retreat. Accommodation ranges from floating
bungalows to mattresses on the deck, all in a lush garden.
Try to come for the open-mic live music nights on Fridays
- the stuff of legend in Cambodian b ack packing circ les.
River sports can also be arranged. Dorm $3 , double $5
★

Greenhouse 8km north of town T 016 8863061,
W greenhousekampot.com. Cheery British owner,
“Donkey” Dave, moved his favourite bar in Phnom Penh -
plank by plank - to this serene riverside location in 2012
to make a unique restaurant area. Along the riverbank,
thatched stilted bungalows (some en-suite) overlook
an arti ficial beach and the best sunset in Cambodia.
Double $10

EATING AND DRINKING
The best street food to be had is between the Old Bridge
and the central tra c circle, where noodle, dessert and
shake stalls appear in the evenings. Nightlife is limited to
the hostels and riverfront bars.
Captain Chim's Next to the Old Market. Pleasant Khmer-
Asian food, such as fried rice ($1.50), served in simple
surrounds of strip lights and plastic furniture. Also offers
good local tours. Daily 7am-9pm.
★

Epic Arts Café East of the old market. Part of a project
benefiting the disabled, this cute little café is run by deaf
people, and instructions on the menu help you to sign your
order. Serves tasty home-made baked goods (banana
brioche, $3) as well as full meals. Daily 7am-4pm.
Little Garden Bar Along the riverfront T 012 427572.
Khmer and Western food, including pizza, served up in a
relaxing little garden patio; also has a rooftop bar. Mains
$4. Daily 7am-10pm.