Cambodia - The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a Budget

Travel Reference

In-Depth Information

Destinations Pailin (1hr 30min); Phnom Penh (6hr);

Poipet (2hr 30min); Siem Reap (3hr 30min).

By boat The boat dock is on the river, a few hundred

metres north from the centre of town; hotel reps and

English-speaking moto drivers meet the boats, so you'll

have no trouble getting to your accommodation speedily.

Boats depart daily at 7am for Siem Reap (6hr in the wet

season, up to 8hr in dry) and cost $25.

TREAT YOURSELF

La Villa East of the river T 053 730151,

W lavilla-battambang.com. Seven-room

boutique retreat in a renovated 1930s

merchant's house. Rooms (all a/c) have

plenty of colonial ambience (albeit not

much furniture) and come with DVD

player, and tea- and coffee-making

facilities. The restaurant serves the best

French food in Battambang and there's a

nice little garden pool. Adv ance booking

recommended. Double $65

★

2

ACCOMMODATION

Asia North of the market T 053 953523, W asrhotel.com

.kh. A cut above most budget places, at ultra-competitive

prices. There's a wide range of rooms (all en-suite), from

bargain fan rooms through to spacio us a/c rooms ($13)

with ornate wooden furniture. Double $6

Royal Hotel 100m west of Psar Nat T 053 952522,

W asrhotel.com.kh. Long-running travellers' favourite

with a wide range of accommodation, from super-cheap

fan rooms with shared bath through to plush a/ c e n-suite

doubles ($12), all clean and good value. Double $4

Seng Hout Hotel 50m north of Psar Nat T 053 952900,

W senghouthotel.com. Comfortable modern hotel, its

facade festooned with flags and its lobby littered with

chunky wooden furniture. Rooms (all with hot water,

plus optional a/c for $5 extra) are bland but c omfo rtable;

facilities include a small gym and pool. Double $10

Star Hotel Just north of the centre T 053 953522,

W asrhotel.com.kh. Not quite as nice as the nearby Asia ,

but still pretty good, with a wide range of fan and a/c

rooms (some wit h h ot water) of various shapes, sizes

and prices. Double $8

Tomato West of Psar Nat T 012 853439. The cheapest

rooms in town, in an attractive shophouse-style building

with a pretty ground-floor terrace shaded by enormous

potted plants. Rooms themselves are not much more than

spartan boxes but reasonably clean a nd quiet - and given

the price you can't complain. Double $3

spag bol and chicken and chips in a basket - a mite

expensive (most mains around $4.50) but excellent

quality, and served in big portions. Daily 7am-10pm.

Lotus St 2.5 T 092 260158. Lively new bar-restaurant in a

lovingly restored old Battambang shophouse given a chic

modern makeover. Food is a short but excellent selection

of Western mains (around $5) - the lotus burger might

just be the best in Cambodia. Doubles as an art gallery,

so always worth having a looking to see what's on show

upstairs, and also hosts occasional live music and events.

Tues-Sun 10am-10pm or later.

Madison Corner St 2.5 T 053 650 2189. No-frills little

corner bar, always lively, with pool table, darts and a TV

screening big matches and other sporting events. There's

also a bit of food including a few Western and Khmer

dishes, plus excellent crêpes. Daily 7am to midnight.

Riverside Balcony Riverfront, south of the centre

T 012 437421. Atmospheric bar located upstairs in an old

wooden house on a curve of the river, with soft lighting,

good music and moreish cocktails. Tues-Sun 4-11pm.

Smokin' Pot Two blocks south of Psar Nat T 012 821400.

Inexpensive and authentic Khmer food, plus a decent

range of Thai and Western dishes (mains $2.50-4). The

small pavement terrace is a great spot to have a drink and

watch the world go by. Daily 7am-10pm.

Sunrise Coffee Shop Just west of the Royal Hotel. Old

Battambang stalwart, still serving good meals (Khmer

and Western) at rock-bottom prices (mains $2-3), plus

the “world's best coffee cake”, as it's modestly described.

Mon-Sat 6.30am-8pm.

EATING AND DRINKING

In the evening, a buzzing night-market opens up on the

street south of Wat Piphithearam. For delicious noodle

dishes, desserts and fruit shakes, head down to the river-

front opposite the post o ce, where street stalls set up in

the afternoon and serve late into the evening.

Gecko St 3 T 017 712428, W geckocafe.net. Attractive

first-floor café in a nice corner spot overlooking St 3 -

staff are recruited from underprivileged backgrounds and

trained here. The menu covers the standards - salads,

sandwiches, burgers, pasta and pizza, plus assorted Asian

and Mexican mains ($5-8). Daily 9am-10pm.

Khmer Delight One block south of Psar Nat, between St

2 & St 2.5 T 012 434746. One of the nicest-looking

restaurants in town, with tasty food featuring all the

usual Khmer classics through to Western dishes such as