Melbourne - Australia 2004 - page 546

The Staff of Life
The enticing aroma of fresh bread is what attracts you to Babka Bakery,
a Russian-style cafe-bakery run by a delightful gaggle of girls. Come for
breakfast or a light lunch of eggs on fresh sourdough, quiches, tarts, and
brioches. Or perhaps try the homemade borscht? It's at 358 Brunswick St.
in Fitzroy ( & 03/9416 0091 ).

Tips

6 Acland St., St. Kilda. & 03/9534 9233. Reservations recommended. Main courses A$10-A$19 (US$6.50-
US$12). AE, MC, V. Mon-Wed noon-2:30pm and 6-10pm; Thurs-Sat noon-2:30pm and 6-10:45pm;
Sun noon-9:45pm. Tram: 16 from Swanston St. or 96 from Bourke St.
Donovans MODERN MEDITERRANEAN Donovans is so near the
sea you expect the fish to jump through the door and onto the plate—and
indeed, you do get extremely fresh seafood. The restaurant is all higgledy-piggledy
and charming, with lots of cushions, a log fire, and the sound of jazz and break-
ers on the beach. The menu includes a mind-boggling array of dishes, many big
enough for two. Chef Robert Castellani's trademarks include steamed mussels,
linguini with seafood, and stuffed squid. The bar is perfect for watching the sun
go down.
40 Jacka Blvd., St. Kilda. & 03/9534 8221. Reservations recommended. Main courses A$23-A$36
(US$15-US$23). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon-10:30pm. Tram: 12 from Collins St., 16 from Swanston St., 94 or
96 from Bourke St.
La Porchetta Pizza Restaurant PIZZA This busy, large, very noisy
pizza joint is a good value. There are some 22 different pizzas to choose from,
with the largest ranging in price from A$6 to A$7.80 (US$4.20-US$4.50)
being just large enough to fill two. A range of pasta dishes costs from A$6 to
A$9 (US$4.20-US$6.30). Chicken, seafood, veal, and steaks are also on the
menu. The heart-pounding pace here means it's not for the faint-hearted.
80 Acland St., St. Kilda. & 03/9534 1888. Main courses A$5-A$14 (US$3.20-US$9.10). No credit cards.
Sun-Thurs 11am-midnight; Fri-Sat 11am-2am. Tram: 16 from Swanston St. or 96 from Bourke St.
MORE ETHNIC EATS IN SOUTH YARRA
Kanpai JAPANESE You have to book early in the day to get a seat at this pop-
ular restaurant on the Chapel Street restaurant strip. The sushi and sashimi
dishes are very fresh, and the miso soup is well worth plundering with your
chopsticks. There's also a good vegetarian selection as well.
569 Chapel St., South Yarra. & 03/9827 4379. Reservations recommended. Main courses A$12-A$34
(US$7.80-US$22). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon-11pm. Tram: 6, 8, or 72 from Swanston St.
Tandoor Indian Restaurant INDIAN This basic Indian restaurant was
far less crowded than many of the others on the Chapel Street strip when I last
visited—all I can say is that the “in” crowd didn't know what they were missing.
The curries here are rich and spicy, with the vegetarian paneer-butter masala
and the cheese kofta being some of the best I've tasted in Australia. Some dishes,
such as the crab masala curry, are truly inspirational. The main courses are quite
large, so you'll probably not need a first course, but I highly recommend side
dishes of naan bread (one per person) and a cucumber raita to cool the palate.
517 Chapel St., South Yarra. & 03/9827 8247. Reservations recommended Fri-Sat night. Main courses
A$11-A$22 (US$7.15-US$14). AE, DC, MC, V. Tues-Fri and Sun noon-2:30pm; daily 6-11pm. Tram: 6, 8, or
72 from Swanston St.

Value