Melbourne - Australia 2004 - page 541

IN THE CITY CENTER
EXPENSIVE
Flower Drum CANTONESE Praise pours in from all quarters for this
upscale restaurant situated just off Little Bourke Street, Chinatown's main drag.
Take a slow elevator up to the restaurant, which has widely spaced tables (per-
fect for politicians and businesspeople to clinch their deals). Take note of the
specials—the chefs are extremely creative and utilize the best ingredients they
find in the markets each day. The signature dish here is the Peking duck,
although the buttered garfish is my favorite. The king crab dumplings in soup
is a great starter. One or 2 days in advance, you can order a banquet for two or
more diners during which you'll be served more unusual dishes such as abalone.
17 Market Lane. & 03/9662 3655. Reservations required. Main courses A$30-A$45 (US$20-US$29).
AE, DC, MC, V. Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm and 6-10pm; Sun 6-10:30pm.
Koko JAPANESE Though you'll find plenty of Japanese sushi and noo-
dle bars around Chinatown, there's nothing quite like raw fish eaten with a bit
of panache. A visit to Crown Casino Entertainment Complex can be a memo-
rable experience in itself, but stop off here and you'll wish you could remember
these tastes forever. The restaurant has a mixed contemporary/traditional decor,
with a goldfish pond in the center of the main dining room and wonderful views
over the city. There are separate teppanyaki grills and screened tatami rooms
where you sit on the matted floor. If you can manage the boiled eel with rice then
go for it. Otherwise the yaki udon, or the cooked “sushi” of roast chicken, duck,
prawns, and rare beef is popular. A selection of 10 different sakes helps digestion.
Level 3, Crown Towers, Southbank. & 03/9292 6886. Reservations required. Main courses A$27-A$32
(US$18-US$21). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon-2:30pm and 6-10:30pm.
Le Restaurant MODERN AUSTRALIAN You might not want to
leave the hotel once you've experienced the Sofitel's dining options. If having the
wonderful Café La on the premises wasn't enough, it is blessed with Le Restau-
rant, one of Melbourne's premier fine-dining choices. The service is exquisite,
the cuisine inventive, and the views fixating. The dishes here are well crafted and
combine wonderful flavors and colors. The menu changes regularly, but you
might find the King Island crayfish in a crust of kaffir lime leaf and morel dust
served up with scallop ravioli, shiitake mushroom, and tarragon essence. The
enormous wine list is mostly populated with expensive vintages.
In the Sofitel Melbourne, 35th floor, 25 Collins St. & 03/9653 7744. Fax [phone]. restaurant-res@
sofitelmelbourne.com.au. Reservations recommended. Main courses A$35-A$45 (US$23-US$29). AE, DC,
MC, V. Tues-Sat 6.30-10:30pm.
MODERATE
ah mu MALAYSIAN Voted best Malaysian in 2002 and 2003 by Melbourne's
The Age Good Food Guide, this restaurant continues to inspire. The cool and
contemporary interiors enhance the menu of chef Allen Woo whose character-
istic modern Asian cooking can lead to marinated fish grilled in banana leaf with
citric sambal belachan or lightly floured king prawns seared in ginger flower syrup.
51 Bourke St. & 03/9654 6800. www.ahmu.com. Reservations recommended Fri-Sat nights. Main courses
$18-A$29 (US$12-US$19). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon-Fri noon-10:30pm; daily 6-10:30pm.
Bamboo House NORTHERN REGIONAL CHINESE/CANTONESE
If Flower Drum (see above) is full (or breaks your budget), try this place, which
is esteemed by both the Chinese community and local business big shots. The
service here is a pleasure, and the food (especially the chicken with shallot sauce)