Adelaide & South Australia - Australia 2004 - page 524

GETTING AROUND The best operator in the area is Coorong Nature
Tours ( & 08/8574 0037, or 0428/714 793 mobile phone; www.lm.net.
au/~coorongnat), based in Narrung. The tours are run by David Dadd, a delight-
ful, unassuming Cockney, who fell in love with the Coorong when he arrived at
the age of 11. He offers memorable 1-, 2-, and 3-day tours of the area, with
pickup either in Meningie or Adelaide. Full-day tours cost A$132 (US$86) per
person from Meningie or A$185 (US$120) per person from Adelaide. Reserva-
tions are essential.
WHERE TO STAY
There are plenty of hotels, B&Bs, campgrounds, and trailer parks in Goolwa
and along the main road that runs parallel to the national park. One of the ones
I prefer is the Goolwa Camping and Tourist Park, 40 Castle Rd., Goolwa, SA
5214 ( & 08/8555 2144 ). It has 70 trailer sites and a large area for tents. A two-
berth van costs A$25 (US$16) a night, and a six-berth A$35 (US$23) for the
first two people and A$5 (US$3.25) for an extra adult or A$3 (US$1.95) for an
extra child. Bring your own bedding.
Grahams Castle Resort This former conference center is classified as a
three-star backpacker's accommodations. Rooms are very basic with two single
beds, heating, and a shower shared between two rooms. It's very popular with
budget groups, so it could get noisy.
Corner of Castle and Bradford sts., Goolwa, SA 5214. & 1800/243 303 in Australia, or 08/8555 3300.
Fax [phone] units. A$15 (US$9.75) per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; heated
outdoor pool; tennis court; tour desk. In room:No phone.
Poltalloch Located smack in the middle of nowhere on the eastern edge
of the Coorong, Poltalloch is a working farm property—with plenty of cows,
ducks, chickens, and dogs wandering about—that seems more like a village. The
whole place is classified by the National Trust of South Australia, and history is
evident everywhere, from the cottages once used by farmhands to the giant
wooden shearing shed and other outbuildings crammed with relics from the past.
You can stay in a choice of five cottages on the property. The Shearer's Hut is
a stone cottage that sleeps up to nine people; the Overseers stone cottage sleeps
up to eight people; the Boundary Rider's Cottage is built of timber, iron, and
stone, and sleeps five; and the Station Hand's Cottage sleeps four. The Shearer's
Quarters is mainly for large groups and sleeps 12. All of the units are modern
and comfortable inside and have their own kitchen facilities and barbecues. I
stayed in the Station Hand's Cottage, once the home of Aboriginal workers. I
loved the mix of rural feeling and modern conveniences.
There's a private beach if you want to swim in the lake, and guests have the
use of a dinghy, a canoe, and a Ping-Pong table. Historical tours of the property
cost A$9 (US$5.85) for adults, and A$4.50 (US$2.90) for children with a min-
imum charge of A$27 (US$18). Bookings are essential. Breakfast provisions are
available for A$13 (US$8.45) per person. Coorong Nature Tours will pick you
up from here for no extra charge. There's plenty of bird life all around.
Poltalloch. P.M.B. 3, Narrung via Tailem Bend, SA 5260. & 08/8574 0088. Fax [phone]. www.
poltalloch.com.au. 3 units. A$105-A$175 (US$68-US$114) per cottage. Extra person A$25 (US$16). MC, V.
Amenities: Tennis court; use of watersports equipment; nonsmoking rooms. In room:A/C, TV, kitchen, fridge,
coffeemaker, iron.