Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The Desert Cave Hotel Though not the only underground hotel in the
world (there's another wonderful one in White Cliffs in New South Wales), this
is the only one with a pool and Jacuzzi. Personally, I find the place to be a little
soul-less. The bar's “pokie” machines are noisy, and you can hear your neighbors
in the next room. (Heaven help you if the TV is turned up loud enough for you
to hear.) The hotel can arrange transfers from the airport (A$6.50/US$4.25).
Hutchison St., Coober Pedy (P.O. Box 223, Coober Pedy, SA 5723). & 1800/088 521 in Australia, or 08/8672
5688. Fax 08/8672 5198. www.desertcave.com.au. 50 units (19 underground). A$175 (US$114) double;
A$195 (US$127) family room sleeping 5. Extra person A$20 (US$13). Ask about packages. AE, DC, MC, V. Free
parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor pool; golf nearby; health club w/Jacuzzi; sauna; tour desk; car-
rental desk (Thrifty only); limited room service; laundry service; dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms. In room:TV,
minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
WHERE TO DINE
The Opal Inn ( & 08/8672 5054 ) offers good-value counter meals of the typi-
cal pub-grub variety. Head to Traces ( & 08/8672 5147 ), the township's favorite
Greek restaurant, for something a bit different.
5 The Coorong
Few places in the world attract as much wildfowl as the Coorong, one of Aus-
tralia's most precious sanctuaries. The Coorong is made up of an area that includes
the mouth of the Murray River, the huge Lake Alexandrina, the smaller Lake
Albert, and a long, thin sand spit called the Younghusband Peninsula. A small, but
by far the most scenic, part of this area is encompassed in the Coorong National
Park. The area is under environmental threat due to pollutants coming south
via the Murray River from farmlands to the north. It still manages to play host
to large colonies of native and visiting birds, such as the Australian pelican, black
swans, royal spoonbills, greenshanks, and the extremely rare hooded plover.
If it were possible to count all the birds here you'd probably run out of steam
after some 45,000 ducks, 5,000 black swans, 2,000 Cape Barren geese, and
122,000 waders. This last figure is even more significant when you consider it
corresponds to a total South Australian population of waders standing at
200,000, and an overall Australian population of some 403,000.
Add to these figures the thousands of pelicans—with around 3,000 birds
nesting here it's the largest permanent breeding colony in Australia—and gulls,
terns, and cormorants, and you'll realize why the Coorong and Lower Murray
Lakes form one of the most important waterbird habitats in Australia.
The national park, which stands out starkly against the degraded farmland
surrounding it, is also home to several species of marsupials, including wombats.
The best time to visit the Coorong is in December and January, when the
lakes are full of migratory birds from overseas. However, plenty of birds can be
spotted year-round. Note: Binoculars and patience are highly recommended.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE The best way to visit the Coorong is by car, though a
guided tour of the area is highly recommended once you arrive at either the
main settlement of Goolwa on the western fringe of the waterways, or at
Meningie, on the eastern boundary. From Adelaide follow the Princes Highway
along the coast.
VISITOR INFORMATION The Goolwa Tourist Information Centre, BF
Lawrie Lane, Goolwa ( & 08/8555 1144; www.alexandrina.sa.gov), has informa-
tion on the area and can book accommodations. It's open from 9am to 5pm daily.
 
 
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