Travel Reference
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cabins perched above a fabulous beach. Each cabin has a large picture window
facing the southern ocean, and comes with a full kitchen, a bathroom, two bed-
rooms (including a double bed and three singles in all), and a wood stove. Bring
your own food and supplies from Kingscote, American River, or Penneshaw. The
ocean can get really wild and dramatic around here with strong offshore winds
whipping up the sand and spray. The cottages are near to most of the major
attractions, so they make a good base. Salmon are often caught off the beach.
Hanson Bay Company, P.O. Box 614, Kingscote, SA 5225. & 08/8853 2603. Fax 08/8853 2673. hansbay@
kin.net.au. 6 units. A$132 (US$86) cabin for 2. A$18 (US$12) extra adult, A$12 (US$7.80) extra child. There's
an A$18 (US$12) surcharge for staying only 1 night. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Bike rental; free coin-op
laundry; nonsmoking rooms. In room:Kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron (on request).
WHERE TO DINE
You'll find that most accommodations on Kangaroo Island provide meals for
guests (at an additional cost, usually). In addition, most day tours around the
island include lunch. You'll find a few cheap takeout booths scattered around the
island at the most popular tourist spots. For lunch you could get sandwiches at
Roger's Deli on Dauncey Street, behind the Ozone Hotel, in Kingscote.
IN PENNESHAW
Dolphin Rock Café FAST FOOD Plastic tables and chairs and budget
meals are what's offered here. The budget meals including individual pizzas, and
french fries and gravy, are popular with backpackers. Also on offer are fish and
chips, hamburgers, and chicken. Across the road, the fairy penguins come in at
dusk.
43 North Terrace (next to the YHA). & 08/8553 1284. Main courses A$4-A$12 (US$2.60-US$7.80). AE,
MC, V. Winter Wed-Mon 7:30am-7:30pm; summer daily 7am-8:30pm.
ELSEWHERE
Cape Willoughby Café LOCAL PRODUCE This fabulous restaurant
is perched on a cliff top on the far eastern tip of the island, right next to Cape
Willoughby Lighthouse (an attraction in itself ), and about 30km (19 miles)
from Penneshaw. One wall is all glass, and there's a veranda outside with terrific
ocean views. King George Whiting is a specialty, as are the desserts (the sticky
date pudding is mouthwatering). Forty-five-minute tours of the lighthouse leave
from the lighthouse office at 10 and 11am, and 12:30 and 2pm daily. They cost
A$6 (US$3.90) for adults, A$4.50 (US$2.90) for children, and A$17 (US$11)
for a family.
Cape Willoughby. & 08/8553 1333. Reservations necessary. Main courses A$20-A$27 (US$13-US$18).
MC, V. Open 10am-4pm for coffee and cakes; 12.30-2.30pm for lunch.
4 Outback South Australia
South Australia is the driest state in Australia. This is well borne out once you
leave behind the parklands of Adelaide and head into the interior. The Outback
is as harsh as it is beautiful. Much of it is made up of stony desert, saltpans, and
sand hills, roamed by kangaroos and wild goats. After spring rains, though, the
area can burst alive with wildflowers.
It was always difficult to travel through these parts, and even today there are
only four main routes that traverse it. One of them, the Birdsville Track, is
famed in Outback history as the trail along which stockmen once drove their
herds of cattle south from Queensland. Another, the Strzelecki Track, runs
through remote sand dune country to Innaminka and on to Coopers Creek.
 
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