Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
DIVING WITH WHALE SHARKS
Diving
is not the correct term for this activity, because it's by snorkeling that you
get close to these leviathans of the deep. Whale sharks are sharks, not whales, and
are the world's biggest fish, reaching an alarming 12m to 18m (39 ft.-58 ft.) in
length. Terrified? Don't be. Their gigantic size belies a gentle nature and swimming
speed; despite having a mouth big enough to swallow a boatload of snorkelers,
they eat plankton. Several boat operators take people out to swim alongside the
fish when they appear from late March to mid-June. A day trip with one of the
longest established whale-shark companies,
Exmouth Diving Centre
(
&
1800/
655 156
in Australia, or 08/9949 1201; www.exmouthdiving.com.au) or its Coral
Bay sister company,
Ningaloo Reef Diving Centre
(
&
08/9942 5824;
www.
users.bigpond.com/ningaloo), costs A$320 (US$208) for snorkeling or A$360
(US$234) including a scuba dive, with all gear included.
DIVING, SNORKELING, FISHING & 4WD TOURS
Scuba dive
the Cape's unspoiled waters, and you will see marvelous reef for-
mations, grouper, manta rays, octopus, morays, potato cod (which you can
hand-feed), and other marvels at a dozen or more sites. Divers often spot hump-
back and false killer whales and large sharks, while snorkelers may see dolphins,
dugongs, and turtles. Loads of dive companies in Exmouth and Coral Bay rent
gear and run daily dive trips and learn-to-dive courses, including the two listed
in “Diving with Whale Sharks,” above. A two-dive day trip costs between A$125
(US$81) and A$160 (US$104) with all gear supplied.
Three great snorkeling spots are: right off the shore at Coral Bay; Bundegi
Beach, 14km (nearly 9 miles) north of Exmouth; and at
Turquoise Bay
, a
60km (37-mile) drive from Exmouth. In deeper waters off Coral Bay, you can
snorkel with
manta rays
with a “wingspan” up to 7m (23 ft.). Companies in
either town run manta and reef-snorkel trips, and rent snorkel gear. The Cape
has loads of swimming beaches; for safety's sake, never swim alone.
Reef fish, tuna, and Spanish mackerel are common catches in these waters,
and black, blue, and striped marlin run outside the reef September through Jan-
uary. Up to a dozen boats operate reef and
game-fishing day trips
out of
Exmouth and Coral Bay, and tackle and tin fishing dinghies are easily rented in
either town.
Green and loggerhead
turtles
lay eggs at night November through February
or March on the Cape's beaches. Take a flashlight and go looking for them, or join
one of several turtle-watch tours from either town. August through October, boats
run cruises from either town to spot
humpback whales.
Because the Cape has few roads, and even fewer sights along the way, take an
off-road 240km (149-mile) four-wheel-drive escapade with
Neil McLeod's
Ningaloo Safari Tours
(
&
08/9949 1550;
www.ningaloosafari.com). You
will explore the arid limestone ridges of 50,581-hectare (124,935-acre) Cape
Range National Park, snorkel Turquoise Bay, climb up a lighthouse, and cruise
orange-walled Yardie Creek Gorge to spot rock wallabies—snacking on Neil's
mum's fruitcake along the way. This full-day trip departs your Exmouth hotel at
7:30am and returns at 6pm. It costs A$145 (US$94) for adults and A$105
(US$68) for children under 13.
WHERE TO STAY & DINE
IN EXMOUTH
Potshot Hotel Resort
The grounds are hot and dusty, but the building is in
a modern complex. The cocktail bar around the pool is the only shady place in
