Perth & Western Australia - Australia 2004 - page 463

WHERE TO STAY & DINE
Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort Set right on the beach the dolphins visit, this
oasis of green lawns and palms doubles as a town settlement. Most comfortable
are the spacious air-conditioned motel rooms; safari tent “canvas condos” with
carpeted floors, bathrooms, electricity, a fridge, and a separate kitchen/dining
area from the bedroom (but no air-conditioning); and air-conditioned
demountable “park homes” with cooking facilities. The pleasant open-sided all-
day restaurant overlooks the sea. Most tours in the area depart from the resort.
A 1.5km (1-mile) nature trail leads from the resort.
Monkey Mia Rd., Shark Bay (P.O. Box 119, Denham, WA 6537). & 1800/653 611 in Australia, or 08/9948 1320.
Fax [phone]. www.monkeymia.com.au. Tent sites: 58 powered sites; 10 on-site trailers; 6 “canvas condo”
permanent tents to sleep 6; 13 park homes to sleep 6, none with bathroom; 72 motel rooms. A$40-A$55
(US$26-US$36) for 2-4 people sharing a trailer rented from resort; A$82 (US$53) up to 4 people in canvas
condo; A$92 (US$60) up to 4 people in park home; A$163-A$186 (US$106-US$121) double or triple motel
room. Extra person A$8.80-A$11 (US$5.70-US$7.15). Linen A$11 (US$7.15) per person in park homes, canvas
condos, and trailers for duration of stay. Lower rates Feb 1-Mar 31 (excluding Easter) and May 1-June 30 except
in on-site vans. Weekly rates available. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant/bar; takeout cafe; outdoor pool;
2 outdoor tennis courts; Jacuzzi (fed by naturally warm underground water); volleyball court; snorkel gear; tour
desk; minimarket; coin-op laundry. In room:Fridge, hair dryer (in motel rooms only).
THE NORTHWEST CAPE
1,272km (789 miles) N of Perth; 1,567km (972 miles) S of Broome
Driving along the only road on the Northwest Cape is like driving on the moon.
Hundreds of red anthills taller than you march away to the horizon, sheep and
'roos threaten to get under the wheels, and the sun beats down from a harsh blue
sky. On the Cape's western shore is coral-filled Coral Bay (pop. 120), a tiny
cluster of dive shops, backpacker lodges, a low-key resort, and charter boats
nestled on sand so white, water so blue, and ochre dust so orange you think the
townsfolk computer-enhanced the colors. North of town are deserted sandy
beaches edged by coral. On the Cape's east coast is Exmouth (pop. 3,500), born
in 1967 as a support town to the Harold E. Holt Naval Communications Sta-
tion, a joint Australian-United States center. Apart from whale-shark diving, the
reason you come here is to scuba dive and snorkel in Ningaloo Marine Park. You
can also take four-wheel-drive trips over the Cape Range National Park, which
covers much of the cape, and surrounding sheep stations. Ningaloo Marine Park
stretches from Bundegi Beach on the Cape's east coast around its northern tip
and down its western side.
Exmouth and Coral Bay are 150km (93 miles) apart. Coral Bay is several
degrees cooler than Exmouth and has divine diving, swimming, and snorkeling;
a restaurant, some takeout, and a bar or two; a small supermarket; and little else.
It has no ATMs. Exmouth is hot and charmless, but it has more facilities,
including a supermarket, an ATM, an outdoor cinema, rental cars, a swimming
beach 1km (just over 1 ⁄ 2 mile) away, and one or two smarter accommodations
and dining options. Most tours not having to do with the reef, such as four-
wheel-drive safaris, leave from Exmouth. Both towns have plenty of dive,
snorkel, fishing, and whale-watch companies. Wherever you stay, it's best to
book ahead in whale-shark season (from Mar to early June). Carry drinking
water everywhere you go.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Skywest ( & 1300/660 088 in Australia; www.skywest.
com.au) flies daily from Perth, and Northwest Regional Airlines ( & 1300/136
629 in Australia, or 08/9192 1369; www.northwestregional.com.au) flies from