Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Under the Stars with the Stars
Every February or March, Leeuwin Estate Winery ( & 08/9430 4099; www.
leeuwinestate.com.au) stages an outdoor concert starring some leading
showbiz light (in 2003 it was k.d. lang; past performers include Shirley
Bassey, Julio Iglesias, and Diana Ross) and usually a major orchestra,
attended by 6,000 picnicking guests. Tickets are A$105 (US$68). This is a
big local event, so book months ahead.
Moments
heads south among the wineries through Vasse, then 25km (16 miles) on
through the tiny village of Cowaramup, 11km (7 miles) farther through Mar-
garet River proper, and 43km (27 miles) on to windswept Cape Leeuwin and
the tiny fishing port of Augusta on Australia's south coast.
A car is close to essential. Avis ( & 1800/679 880 in Australia for reservations
in the Southwest, or 08/9757 3686) and Hertz ( & 13 30 39 in Australia ,or
08/9758 8331) have offices in Margaret River.
Several companies run sightseeing and winery tours from Margaret River or
Perth.
TOURING THE WINERIES
Fans of premium wines will have a field day. Cabernet sauvignon and merlot are
the star red varieties, while chardonnay, semillon, and sauvignon blanc are the
pick of the bunch of whites. Most wineries offer free tastings from 10am to
4:30pm daily. Most cluster north of Margaret River, around Cowaramup.
The region's top winery is Leeuwin Estate , Stevens Road, Margaret River
( & 08/9759 0000 ). It has a towering reputation, especially for chardonnay; its Art
Series label is among the country's best. Winery tours are scheduled three times
a day. A relative newcomer, Voyager Estate, Stevens Road, Margaret River
( & 08/9757 6354 ), has exquisite rose gardens and a South African Cape
Dutch-style cellar. These wines are gaining a good reputation. Other labels to look
for are Arlewood Estate, Cape Mentelle, Cullen Wines, Devil's Lair, Evans & Tate,
Lenton Brae, Pierro (at least one wine writer claims it makes Australia's best
chardonnay), and Sandalford Wines. Vasse Felix winery makes two highly drink-
able “quaffers”—Aussie slang for easy-drinking, inexpensive wines—called Theatre
Red and Theatre White. They are served in the London West End theaters owned
by the winery's proprietor, Janet Holmes à Court, Australia's wealthiest woman.
BEYOND THE WINERIES: CAVES, BUSH TUCKER & MORE
Six of the Southwest's 350 or so limestone caves are open to the public, some
with elaborate stalactite formations. Before or after you visit, call at CaveWorks
ecointerpretive center at Lake Cave, Caves Road, 15km (9 miles) south of Mar-
garet River's Wallcliffe Road ( & 08/9757 7411 ), open daily except Christmas
from 9am to 5pm. Entry is free if you tour Lake, Jewel, or Mammoth caves, or
else A$3 (US$1.95) for adults, A$2 (US$1.30) for children 4 to 15.
Lake Cave, right outside CaveWorks and 300 steps down an ancient sinkhole,
contains a tranquil pond in which exquisite stalactites are reflected. Four kilome-
ters (2 1 2 miles) north along Caves Road is Mammoth Cave, where you can see the
fossilized jaw of a baby zygotaurus trilobus, an extinct giant wombat. Jewel Cave,
8km (5 miles) north of Augusta on Caves Road, is the prettiest. Tours of Lake and
Jewel and self-guided tours (using a CD audio system) of Mammoth cost A$14
(US$9.10) for adults, A$5.50 (US$3.60) for children 4 to 15. A 7-day Grand Pass
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