Perth & Western Australia - Australia 2004 - page 450

WHERE TO STAY & DINE
New Norcia Hotel When they thought a Spanish royal visit to New Norcia
was imminent in 1926, the monks built this grandiose white hotel fit for, well,
a king. Sadly, the royals never materialized, and the building was used as a hos-
tel for parents of the children boarding at the town's colleges. In 1955, it became
a hotel. Only the grand central staircase, soaring pressed-metal ceilings, and
imposing Iberian facade hint at the splendor that was. About 4 years ago, new
carpets, curtains, and beds were put in, but be prepared for rather grim rooms.
Only one has an en suite bathroom, air-conditioning, and a TV. Still, it's rather
nice to eat a meal at the dated bar or the charmingly faded dining room, and to
sit on the football field-size front veranda upstairs. The bar gets jumping on Fri-
day and Saturday nights when local farmers come to town. This is the only place
to stay in town. No smoking.
Great Northern Hwy., New Norcia, WA 6509. & 08/9654 8034. Fax [phone]. [e-mail].
17 units, 1 only with bathroom. A$77 (US$50) double without bathroom, A$90 (US$59) double with bathroom.
Extra person A$15 (US$9.75). Breakfast A$11 (US$7.15) continental or A$18 (US$12) cooked; kids eat for half
price. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; nonsmoking rooms. In room:Fridge, coffeemaker, iron, no phone.

3 Margaret River & the Southwest: Wine Tasting
in the Forests ™
Margaret River: 290km (180 miles) S of Perth
Say “Margaret River” to Australians and their eyes light up as they reply “great
wine!” The area's 42 wineries nestle among statuesque forests of karri, the world's
third-tallest tree. The wineries contribute only around 1% of Australia's wine
output, yet they turn out some 10% of the country's top-notch “premium”
wines. Not even most Aussies know about the Southwest's other drawing
cards—like the spectacular surf breaks on the 130km (81-mile) coast from Cape
Naturaliste in the north to Cape Leeuwin on the southwest tip of Australia; the
coastal cliffs, perfect for abseiling (rappelling) and rock climbing; and the hon-
eycomb of limestone caves filled with stalagmites and stalactites. Whales pass by
June through December, wildflowers line the roads August through October,
and wild birds, kangaroos, and shingle-backed lizards are everywhere. If you like
hiking, pack your boots, because there are plenty of trails, from a 15-minute
stroll around Margaret River township, to a 6-day Cape-to-Cape trek along

the sea cliffs. The Southwest is one of Australia's last great wildernesses.
Like wine regions the world over, the Southwest has more than its fair share
of cozy B&Bs, galleries, and some super restaurants. Plan to stay at least 2 days.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE It's a 3 1 ⁄ 2 -hour drive to Margaret River from Perth; take
the inland South Western Highway (the quickest route) or the more scenic Old
Coast Road to Bunbury, and pick up the Bussell Highway to Margaret River.
Air Australia ( & 9332 5011; www.airaustralia.net) operates charter flights
from Perth's Jandakot airport and a Busselton-Margaret River air taxi service
twice a day on weekdays for A$140 (US$91) per person one-way. Leeuwin
Estate winery does charter flights from Perth. Contact the Fremantle office
( & 08/9430 4099; www.leeuwinestate.com.au) for details.
Southwest Coachlines ( & 1800/800 530 in Australia, or 08/9324 2333)
runs a daily service, and two on weekends and public and Western Australian
school holidays, to Margaret River from Perth for about A$25 (US$16). There
is no train, but government rail organization WA G R ( & 13 10 53 in Western