Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
here, so don't swim, and keep well away from the water's edge.) Or take a ranger-
guided walk, which you must book by calling & 08/8988 8188.
Four kilometers (2 1 2 miles) down the Arnhem Highway at Beatrice Hill, you
may want to stop at the Window on the Wetlands Visitor Centre ( & 08/8988
8188 ), a hilltop center with views across the Adelaide River floodplain and dis-
plays and touch-screen information on the wetlands' ecology. It's free and open
daily from 7:30am to 7:30pm.
Just past Beatrice Hill on the highway at the Adelaide River Bridge (look out
for the statue of a grinning croc), you can join the Original Jumping Croco-
diles cruise ( & 1800/888 542 in Australia, or 08/8988 8144) aboard the Ade-
laide River Queen to watch wild crocodiles leap out of the water for hunks of
meat dangled over the edge by the boat crew. It's an unabashed tourist trap, and
not to my taste, but because crocs typically only move fast when they attack,
it may be your only chance to witness their immense power and speed. The
90-minute cruise departs at 9 and 11am, and 1 and 3pm May through August,
and 9 and 11am, and 2:30pm September through April (closed Dec 24-25). A
free shuttle runs from Darwin twice a day. It costs A$36 (US$23) for adults,
A$29 (US$19) for seniors, and A$20 (US$13) for children 5 to 15. The sou-
venir shop sells all things croc, including crocodile toilet seat covers!
TOP PARK ATTRACTIONS
WETLANDS CRUISES One of the biggest attractions in the park is Yellow
Water Billabong, a lake 50km (31 miles) south of the Bowali Visitor Centre at
Cooinda (pop. about 20). It's rich with freshwater mangroves, paperbarks,
pandanus palms, water lilies, and masses of birds gathering here to drink—
sea eagles, honking magpie geese, kites, china blue kingfishers, and jacanas,
called “Jesus birds” because they seem to walk on water as they step across the
lily pads. This is also one of the best places in the park to spot saltwater crocs.
Cruises in canopied boats with a running commentary depart near Gagudju
Lodge Cooinda six times a day from 6:45am in the Dry (Apr-Nov) and four
times a day from 8:30am in the Wet (Dec-Mar). A 90-minute cruise costs A$36
(US$23) for adults and A$15 (US$9.75) for children 2 to 14. A 2-hour cruise
(available in the Dry only) costs A$41 (US$27) for adults and A$17 (US$11)
for children. Book through Gagudju Lodge Cooinda (p. 414).
In the Wet, when the Billabong floods to join up with Jim Jim Creek and the
South Alligator River, the bird life spreads far and wide over the park and the
crocs head upriver to breed, so don't expect wildlife viewing to be spectacular.
Another good cruise is the Guluyambi East Alligator River Cruise ( & 1800/
089 113 in Australia, or 08/8979 2411). The East Alligator River forms the bor-
der between Kakadu and isolated Arnhemland, and unlike the Yellow Water
cruise, which focuses on crocs, birds, and plants, on this you will learn about
Aboriginal myths, bush tucker, and hunting techniques. The cruise lasts 1 hour,
starting at 9 and 11am, and 1 and 3pm daily May through October. A free shut-
tle will take you from the Border Store to the boat ramp. It costs A$30 (US$20)
for adults and A$15 (US$9.75) for children 4 to 14.
ABORIGINAL ART & CULTURE There are as many as 5,000 art sites
throughout the park, though for cultural reasons the Aboriginal owners make
only a few accessible to visitors. Dating the rock art is controversial, but it is
thought some paintings may be 50,000 years old. The best are Nourlangie
Rock and Ubirr Rock. Nourlangie, 31km (19 miles) southeast of the Bowali
Visitor Centre, features “X-ray”-style paintings of animals and a vivid, energetic
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