Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Dinner in the Desert
Why sit in a restaurant when you can eat outside in the dust? Because
you came to the Outback to be outside, that's why. Ayers Rock Resort's
Sounds of Silence dinner
makes outside eating a fascinating event.
In an outdoor clearing, you sip champagne and nibble canapés as the
sun sets over the Rock to the strains of a didgeridoo—played by a
white man (the excuse is that didgeridoos don't come from this part of
the world, but from Arnhem Land)—though there seem to be plenty
of local Aboriginals who play. We hope you've zeroed in on people
you want to sit with by now, because you head to communal white-
clothed, candlelit tables and a serve-yourself a meal of kangaroo and
barramundi (a large fresh-water fish). Last time I was here they served
pretty poor pumpkin soup to begin, the main courses varied from
bland to nice, and the Aussie wines were bad examples. However, after
dinner, the lanterns fade, and you are left with stillness (apart from an
occasional dingo looking for scraps). It is the first time some city folk
have ever heard silence. Next, an astronomer points out the constella-
tions of the Southern Hemisphere, and you have a chance to see the
stars through telescopes. Sounds of Silence is held nightly, weather per-
mitting, and costs A$120 (US$78) for adults and A$60 (US$39) for chil-
dren under 15, including transfers from Ayers Rock Resort. It's mighty
popular, so book 3 months ahead in peak season. Book through the
Ayers Rock Resort office in Sydney (
&
1300/139 889
or 02/9339 1040).
is some rock art. The
Liru Track
is another easy trail; it runs 2km (1
1
⁄
4
miles)
from the Cultural Centre to Uluru, where it links with the Base Walk.
Make time for the free daily 2km (1
1
⁄
4
-mile)
Mala Walk
, where the ranger,
who is often an Aborigine, explains the Dreamtime myths behind Uluru, talks
about Aboriginal lifestyles and hunting techniques in days past, and explains the
significance of the rock art and other sites you see along the way. The 90-minute
trip leaves the Mala Walk sign at the base of the Uluru climb at 10am May
through September, and at a cooler 8am October through April.
Before setting off on any walk, it's a good idea to arm yourself with the self-
guided walking notes available for A$1.10 (US70¢) from the Cultural Centre
(see “Visitor Information,” above).
A paved road runs around the Rock.
Most companies offer base tours. As an example,
Discovery Ecotours
(for-
merly Uluru Experience) (
&
1800/803 174;
www.discoveryecotours.com.au)
conducts two guided base tours that give you an insight into natural history,
rock art, and Dreamtime beliefs. Both arrive in time for sunrise: one is a 5-hour
walk, the other is a 4-hour tour in a four-wheel-drive vehicle that incorporates
short walks to the Rock base and a stop at the Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural Cen-
tre. Both include the park entry fee and breakfast, and cost A$105 (US$68) for
adults and A$70 (US$46) for children 6 to 15. Admission is free for kids under 6
but their meals are not included. The 5-hour walk is not suited for kids under 10.
FLYING OVER IT
Several companies do scenic flights by light aircraft or hel-
icopter over Uluru and/or Kata Tjuta/the Olgas, nearby Mt. Conner, the vast
