Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
discovery that the lesser-known nearby
domes of Kata Tjuta, or “the Olgas”
are even more spectacular (if that's pos-
sible). A half-day's drive from the Rock
brings you to Kings Canyon, an awe-
somely lovely desert gorge popular
with hikers. If you visit the Red Cen-
tre, try to spend at least a few days in
Alice Springs. This laid-back Outback
town has the best Aboriginal arts-and-
crafts shopping in Australia, Aborigi-
nal tours, a world-class desert wildlife
park, stunning scenery, hikes through
the stark MacDonnell Ranges, an Out-
back ranch to stay at, and even camel
rides along a dry riverbed.
THE TOP END
The northwest
reaches of the country (from the rocky
red ranges of the Kimberley in West-
ern Australia to the northern third of
the Northern Territory) encompass
what Aussies eloquently dub “the Top
End.” This is Crocodile Dundee terri-
tory, a remote, vast, semidesert region
where the cattle probably outnumber
the people. In this topic, we have con-
centrated on the Northern Territory
section of the “Top End,” with the
Kimberley included in the Western
Australia chapter.
Near the tropical city of Darwin,
the territory's capital, is Kakadu
National Park, where you can cruise
past crocodiles on inland billabongs
(ponds), bird-watch, and visit ancient
Aboriginal rock-art sites. Closer to
Darwin is Litchfield National Park,
where you can take a dip in fern-
fringed swimming holes surrounded
by red cliffs—stuff straight from
Eden. You can cruise the waterways of
Katherine Gorge, a few hours' drive
south of Darwin, or explore them by
canoe. Near Katherine you can canoe
rarely explored, croc-infested inland
rivers and learn to make your own
didgeridoo (a large wooden, tradi-
tional Aboriginal musical instrument).
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Distance
and high airfares work against Western
Australia's tourism industry, which is a
shame because this is one of Australia's
most wild and beautiful regions. The
seas teem with whales in season, and
thrill seekers can swim alongside
gigantic but gentle whale sharks on
the Northwest Cape every fall
(Mar-June). This cape is home to one
of Australia's best-kept secrets, a sec-
ond barrier reef called Ningaloo
Marine Park, which runs for 260km
(161 miles), one of the few reefs in the
world to grow on a western coast. You
can snorkel with manta rays here or
try the fantastic diving. Just 19km (12
miles) off Perth, snorkelers can gaze at
corals and fish on Rottnest Island, and
in Shark Bay at Monkey Mia, tourists
can greet wild dolphins (or is it the
other way around?).
In the southwest “hook” of the con-
tinent lies the Margaret River wine
region. Wild forests, thundering surf,
dramatic cliffs, rich bird life, and wild
'roos make it one of the country's most
attractive wine regions. The state's
capital, Perth, has surf beaches and a
restored 19th-century port with a fun
atmosphere and some great museums.
One or 2 hours' drive from the city
brings you to some cute towns, like
the Spanish Benedictine monastery
town of New Norcia. Inland, the state
is mostly wheat fields and desert, but
if you have the inclination, head west
600km (372 miles) from Perth to the
gold-mining town of Kalgoorlie,
where you'll find the world's largest
open-cast gold mine. With its gracious
old pubs lining the wide bustling
streets, it's what an Aussie country
town should look like.
In the Kimberley, you can visit the
ancient Geikie and Windjana gorges,
pearl farms where the world's best
South Sea pearls grow, and the charm-
ing (in a corrugated-iron sort of way)
beachside frontier town of Broome.
This tract of the country is so little
populated and so underexplored that
most Aussies never contemplate com-
ing here. Getting around is expensive,
