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transfers also available. No children under 10. Amenities: Restaurant; freshwater pool; night/day tennis
court; gymnasium; spa; laundry service. In room: A/C and fans, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
Moderate/Inexpensive
Fitzroy Island Resort This is probably the most affordable island resort on
the Great Barrier Reef. It's targeted at a young crowd looking for action and eco-
fun in a pristine, beautiful location. It's no glamour-puss palace, but was
revamped in 2000 to include a Hard Rock Cafe-style restaurant and spruced-
up interiors. Fitzroy is a continental island offering little in the way of fringing
coral and only a few narrow strips of coral sand. What it does have are catama-
rans, outrigger canoes, and surf skis; glass-bottom-boat rides; and hiking trails
through dense national park forest to a lighthouse. Divers can make drift dives
over the reefs dotted around the island to see manta rays, reef sharks, turtles, and
coral. There is good snorkeling at two points around the island that you can
reach twice a day on the dive boat, at an extra fee. You can also catch the
Sunlover Cruises day trip to the outer Great Barrier Reef. The dive shop runs
introductory and certified dives and certification courses. Each of the modestly
comfortable beach cabins has a queen-size bed and two bunks in the back, and
the rooms have ceiling fans and a large balcony with views through the trees to
the sea. The bunkhouse accommodations are basic fan-cooled carpeted rooms
with bunks and/or beds. Bunkhouse guests can use the communal kitchen, but
must bring their own supplies from the mainland.
The restaurant is moderately priced, a kiosk sells takeout food, and the pool-
side grill and bar offers casual meals. The Raging Thunder Beach Bar, billed as
“the only nightclub on the Reef,” gets going on Saturday nights.
35km (22 miles) southeast of Cairns (P.O. Box 1109, Cairns, QLD 4870). & 07/4051 9588. Fax 07/4052
1335. www.fitzroyislandresort.com.au. 52 cabins (all with shower only); 32 bunkhouses, none with private
bathroom. Cabins A$220 (US$143) double. Extra person A$35 (US$23). Bunkhouses A$31 (US$20) per per-
son per bed (sharing with up to 3 other people); A$116 (US$76) double (sole use); A$124 (US$81) family
bunkhouse (sleeps 4). AE, DC, MC, V. Round-trip transfers 3 times daily from Cairns (approx. 45 min.) cost
A$36 (US$23) adults, A$18 (US$12) children 4-14. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor pool; watersports
equipment; tour desk; dive shop. In room(cabins only): TV, minifridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
WHERE TO DINE
IN CAIRNS
Expensive
Fishlips Bar & Bistro MODERN AUSTRALIAN/SEAFOOD Ask locals
where they go for seafood—as opposed to where they send tourists—and they
direct you to this 1920s bluebird-blue shack about 2km (1 1 4 miles) from town.
Chef Ian Candy is renowned for his flair and innovation with seafood. All dishes
come in small or large servings, and the local barramundi, or “barra,” shows up in
several incarnations, maybe beer-battered with rough-cut chips (fries) and fresh
tartar sauce, simply grilled, or served with eggplant pickle and rocket pesto on
chargrilled zucchini and onion with charred polenta. There are plenty of non-
seafood options as well. Be daring—try the crocodile, pan-fried with pine nuts,
coriander, and cumin. For dessert, don't go past the homemade ice cream with fla-
vors that change each week. How nice to see that almost every choice on the wine
list comes by the glass. Dine inside (air-conditioned for those humid nights) or on
the front deck, with its bright blue pots and palm trees. Licensed Sunday through
Thursday, and BYO wine only (no BYO beer or spirits).
228 Sheridan St. (between Charles and McKenzie sts.) & 07/4041 1700. www.fishlips.com.au. Reservations
recommended. Main courses A$12-A$19 (US$7.80-US$12) small sizes, A$20-A$41 (US$13-US$27) large
sizes. AE, DC, MC, V. Fri noon-2:30pm; daily 6pm-late.
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