Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
INEXPENSIVE
Govindas VEGETARIAN When I think of Govindas, I can't help smiling.
Perhaps it's because I'm reliving the happy vibe from the Hare Krishna center it's
based in, or maybe it's because the food is so cheap! Or maybe it's because they
even throw in a decent movie with the meal. (The movie theater is on a differ-
ent floor.) The food is simple vegetarian, served buffet style and eaten in a basic
room off black-lacquer tables. Typical dishes include pastas and salads, lentil
dishes, soups, and casseroles. It's BYO and doctrine-free.
112 Darlinghurst Rd., Darlinghurst. & 02/9380 5155. Dinner A$16 (US$10), including free movie. AE, MC,
V. Daily 6-11pm. CityRail: Kings Cross.
IN GLEBE
The Boathouse on Blackwattle Bay SEAFOOD Located above
Sydney University's rowing club and looking over a working area of Sydney Har-
bour, this converted boat shed offers water views across to the city and the Anzac
Bridge. Terrific French-inspired seafood is served up in an elegant, yet informal,
atmosphere of white tablecloths and good natural lighting. The service is good,
and you can see the chefs at work in the open-plan kitchen. You can't go wrong
with the signature dish, the fabulous snapper fish pie with roasted tomatoes and
mashed potatoes. There are also usually nine varieties of oysters on the menu. A
good wine list and delicious desserts cap off a truly memorable experience. I
highly recommend the Boathouse, particularly as a lunchtime treat. Catch a taxi,
as it's a little hard to find.
End of Ferry Rd., Glebe. & 02/9518 9011. http://www.bluewaterboathouse.com.au. Main courses
A$36-A$41 (US$23-US$27). AE, DC, MC, V. Tues-Sun noon-2:30pm and 6:30-10pm. Bus 431, 433, or 434
from Millers Point, The Rocks (via George St.), or 459 from behind Town Hall.
IN PADDINGTON
The top end of Oxford Street, which runs from Hyde Park in central Sydney
toward Bondi, has a profusion of trendy bars and cafes and a scattering of
cheaper eateries among the more glamorous ones.
Bistro Lulu FRENCH/AUSTRALIAN Gabrielle, my delightful French
friend, raves about Bistro Lulu. “It's the worn floorboards and smell of coffee—
it's like being back in Paris,” she says. But Gabrielle won't find the same Aus-
tralian influence in the food back home. Here chef Luke Mangan, also behind
Salt (above), serves undemanding yet elegant food, which to me tastes a little ho-
hum international, the sort of stuff you might find in good hotel restaurants
worldwide. The duck confit and the vegetarian artichoke and fig gallette were
Gabrielles' favorites, but the menu changes frequently. Such a long list of good
wines by the glass is pleasing and rare to find in Sydney. The place is always busy.
257 Oxford St., Paddington & 02/9380 6888. Main courses A$25-A$26 (US$16-US$17). AE, DC, MC, V.
Thurs-Sat noon-3pm; daily 6-11pm (10pm Sun). Bus: Oxford St.
CAFE CULTURE
Debate rages over which cafe serves the best coffee in Sydney, which has the best
atmosphere, and which has the tastiest snacks. The main cafe scenes are centered
around Victoria Street in Darlinghurst, Stanley Street in East Sydney, and King
Street in Newtown. Other places, including Balmoral Beach on the north shore,
Bondi Beach, and Paddington, all have their favored hangouts as well.
Note: Americans will be sorry to learn that, unlike in the States, free refills
of coffee are rare in Australian restaurants and cafes. Sip slowly. Expect a cup of
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