Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Dress Up for Your Evening Out
As most of the world dresses more and
more casually, Bermuda's dress codes
have loosened up a bit—but this is still
a more formal destination than many
other islands. Most restaurants prefer
that men wear a jacket and tie after
6pm; women usually wear casual, chic
clothing in the evening. It's always wise
to ask about required dress when
you're reserving a table. And during the
day, no matter what the establishment,
be sure to wear a cover-up—don't
arrive for lunch sporting a bikini.
See the “Etiquette” section under
“Fast Facts: Bermuda” in chapter 10 for
more information.
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In recent years, some Bermudians have shown an increased interest in their heri-
tage. They've revived many traditional dishes and published the recipes in topics
devoted to Bermudian cooking (not a bad idea for a souvenir).
As the population grows, less and less farmland is available on the island, so Ber-
muda imports most of its food from the United States (which means you might want
to focus on dishes made with the local ingredients noted below as much as possible;
there's no telling how long that imported meat has been in storage). But lots of people
still tend their own gardens; at one home, we were amazed at the variety of vegetables
grown on a small plot of land, including sorrel, oyster plants, and Jerusalem artichokes.
What's Cooking?
SEAFOOD
Any local fisherman will be happy to tell you that more species of
shore and ocean fish—including grunt, angelfish, yellowtail, gray snapper, and the
ubiquitous rockfish—are found off Bermuda's coastline than in any other place.
Rockfish,
which is similar to Bahamian grouper, appears on nearly every menu.
From the ocean, it weighs anywhere from 15 to 135 pounds (or even more). Steamed,
broiled, baked, fried, or grilled, rockfish is a challenge to any chef. There's even a dish
known as “rockfish maw,” which we understand only the most old-fashioned cooks
(there is still a handful on St. David's Island) know how to prepare. It's the maw, or
stomach, of a rockfish, stuffed with a dressing of forcemeat (seasoned chopped fish)
and simmered slowly on the stove. If you view dining as an adventure, you may want
to try it.
The most popular dish on the island is
Bermuda fish chowder,
made with a
variety of white fish (often rockfish). Waiters usually pass around a bottle of sherry
peppers and some black rum, which you add to your soup; these lend a distinctive
Bermudian flavor.
Shark
isn't as popular on Bermuda as it used to be, but many traditional dishes,
including hash, are made from shark. Some people use shark-liver oil to forecast the
weather; it's said to be more reliable than the nightly TV report. The oil is left in the
sun in a small bottle. If it lies still, fair weather is ahead; if droplets form on the sides
of the bottle, expect foul weather.
The great game fish in Bermuda is
wahoo,
a sweet fish that tastes like albacore.
If it's on the menu, go for a wahoo steak. Properly prepared, it's superb.
The
Bermuda lobster
(or “guinea chick,” as it's known locally) has been called a
first cousin of the Maine lobster. It's in season from September to March. Its high
