Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
GOMBEY DANCING
Despite new pop forms, Bermuda is proud of its original musical idioms. Gombey
dancing is the island's premier folk art. Gombey (commonly pronounced
goom
-bee or
gom
-bay) combines West Africa's tribal heritage with the Native American and British
colonial influences of the New World. African Caribbeans brought to Bermuda as
slaves or convicts introduced the tradition, and its rhythms are similar to Brazilian
street samba. Gombey dancers are almost always male; in accordance with tradition,
men pass on the rhythms and dance techniques from generation to generation in
their family. Dancers outfit themselves in masquerade costumes, whose outlandish
lines and glittering colors evoke the brilliant plumage of tropical birds.
Gombey (spelled goombay in some other places, such as The Bahamas) signifies a
specific type of African drum, as well as the Bantu word for “rhythm.” These rhythms
escalate into an ever faster and more hypnotic beat as the movements of the dancers
become increasingly uninhibited, and the response of the spectators grows ever more
fervent. The most strenuous dances are usually performed during the Christmas
season.
Although gombey dancing, with its local rituals and ceremonies, can be seen as
one of Bermuda's major cultural contributions, it's not unique to the island. Variations
are found elsewhere in the western Atlantic, as well as in the Caribbean. Indeed,
during its development, Bermuda's gombey dancing was significantly influenced by
some of these other versions. In colonial times, for example, when African Caribbe-
ans were brought to Bermuda as slaves or convicts to help build the British military
installations on the island, they carried with them their own gombey traditions, which
eventually combined with those that had already taken root in Bermuda. What's
unique about the Bermudian version of gombey, however, is its use of the British
snare drum, played with wooden sticks, as an accompaniment to the dancing.
A handful of gombey recordings are available, enabling you to hear the sounds of
this African-based music, with its rhythmic chanting and rapid drumbeat. Among the
recordings, the album
Strictly Gombey Music
(Edmar 1165), performed by four mem-
bers of the Pickles Spencer Gombey Group, offers a good selection of gombey
dances.
Aficionados of this art form, however, will argue that gombey's allure lies not so
much in the music as in the feverish—almost trancelike—dancing that accompanies
it, as well as in the colorful costumes of the dancers. For that reason, they say, audio
recordings can't convey the full mesmerizing power of a gombey dance the way a
visual recording can. So, while you're in Bermuda, consider filming a gombey dance
to show when you get back home.
Regrettably, there's no one place in Bermuda where you can always see gombey.
Your best bet is to inquire at your hotel to see what events and performances might
be staged during your visit. Sometimes hotels present gombey shows, but they don't
follow a fixed schedule.
THE BALLADEER TRADITION
Bermuda also has a strong balladeer tradition. Although its exponents are fewer than
they used to be, local balladeers continue to enjoy considerable popularity among
islanders and visitors alike. A wry, self-deprecating humor has always distinguished
their compositions, and balladeers can strum a song for any occasion on their guitars.
Today, many of their songs have to do with Bermuda's changing way of life.
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