Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE IMPERMANENCE OF TRAVEL
Travel regulations to Tibet are constantly in flux, dependent largely on political events in
Lhasa and Běijīng. Don't be surprised if the permit system is radically different from how
we describe it. In fact, expect it. Our advice is based on current travel restrictions, but we
have included some information on currently restricted things, such as public transport
and DIY trips to off-the-beaten-track monasteries, in the hope that regulations ease.One
of the best places for updated information is the Tibet page of Lonely Planet's Thorn Tree,
at www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree.
Other good sources of permit information are the websites www.thelandofsnows.com
and www.tibetpermit.org . The latter is run by an agency in Sìchuān but is generally reli-
able on permit matters.
Alien's Travel Permits & Other Such Fun
Once you have a visa and have managed to wangle a TTB permit, you'd think you'd be
home and dry. Think again. Your agency will need to arrange an alien's travel permit for
most of your travels outside Lhasa.
Travel permits are not needed for Lhasa or places just outside the city such as Ganden
Monastery but most other areas do technically require permits. Permits are most easily ar-
ranged in the regional capital, so for western Tibet you'll have to budget an hour in Shig-
atse, and possibly also Ali, for your guide to process the permit. Agencies can only arrange
a travel permit for those on a tour with them.
Sensitive border areas - such as Mt Kailash, the road to Kashgar and the Nyingtri region
of eastern Tibet - also require a military permit and a foreign-affairs permit. For remote
places such as the Yarlung Tsangpo gorges in southeastern Tibet, the roads through Lhoka
south of Gyantse or for any border area, you may not be able to get permits even if you
book a tour. Regions can close at short notice. The entire Chamdo prefecture has been
closed since 2010, effectively blocking overland trips from Sìchuān and Yúnnán. You'll
have to check to see if this has changed.
You should give your agency a week to 10 days to arrange your permits, and two weeks
if military or other permits are required. The authorities generally won't issue permits
more than 15 days in advance. Local Public Security Bureau (PSB) officers often make the
 
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