Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
MONASTERY LAYOUT
Tibetan monasteries are based on a conservative design and share a remarkable continu-
ity of layout. Many are built in spectacular high locations above villages. Most were origin-
ally surrounded by an outer wall, built to defend the treasures of the monastery from
bands of brigands, Mongolian hordes or even attacks from rival monasteries. Most mon-
asteries have a kora (pilgrimage path) around the complex, replete with holy rocks and
meditation retreats high on the hillside behind. A few monasteries have a sky-burial site
and most are still surrounded by ruins dating from the Cultural Revolution.
Main Buildings
Inside the gates there is usually a central courtyard used for special
ceremonies and festivals and a darchen(flag pole). Surrounding buildings usually include
a dukhang(main assembly or prayer hall) with gönkhang(protector chapels) and
lhakhang(subsidiary chapels), as well as monks' quarters, a kangyur lhakhang(library)
and, in the case of larger monasteries, tratsang(colleges), kangtsang(halls of residence),
kitchens and a barkhang(printing press). At the entrance to most buildings are murals of
the Four Guardian Kings and perhaps a Wheel of Life or a mandala mural.
Main Prayer Hall
The dukhangconsists of rows of low seats and tables, often strewn
with cloaks, hats, ritual instruments, drums and huge telescopic horns. There is a small
altar with seven bowls of water, butter lamps and offerings of mandalas made from
seeds. The main altar houses the most significant statues, often Sakyamuni, Jampa
(Maitreya) or a trinity of the Past, Present and Future Buddhas and perhaps the founder
of the monastery or past lamas. Larger monasteries contain funeral chörtens of import-
ant lamas, as well as special relics such as 'self-arising' (ie not human-made) footprints
or handprints made from stone. There may be a tsangkhang(inner sanctum) behind the
main hall, the entrance of which is flanked by protector gods, often one blue, Chana Dorje
(Vajrapani) and the other red, Tamdrin (Hayagriva). There may well be an inner kora (kor-
lam) of prayer wheels. Back at the entrance side stairs lead to higher floors.
Protector Chapels
Gönkhangare dark and spooky protector chapels that hold wrath-
ful manifestations of deities, frequently covered with a cloth because of their terrible ap-
pearance. Murals here are often traced against a black background and walls are decor-
ated with Tantric deities, grinning skeletons or even dismembered bodies. The altars of-
ten have grain, dice or mirrors, used for divination, and the pillars are decorated with fest-
ival masks, antique weapons and sometimes stuffed snakes and wolves. Deep Tantric
drumming often pulsates through the room. Women are often not allowed into protector
chapels.
