Tibetan Treks - Tibet - page 470

KYANG-RAG
It is said that the sixth Panchen Lama, Palden Yeshe (1738-80), and his retinue once
camped along the Kyang-chu. One day a kyang(wild ass) wandered into camp and
entered the tent used by him in his religious practice. The Panchen Lama tossed a sack
containing sacrificial cakes on the back of the wild ass. The kyangexited the tent,
wandered to the other side of the river and disappeared into a cliff. Curious, Palden Yeshe
went in pursuit of the kyangand reached the cliff where it was last seen. Here he found an
old monk who had covered the very spot with his cloak. The Panchen Lama demanded to
know what was going on and pulled off the cloak. Immediately his nose began to bleed.
Taking this as a mystic sign, he used the blood to paint an image of Palden Lhamo on the
rocks. This site became the inner sanctum of Kyang-rag Monastery. As it turned out the
kyangwas no ordinary animal but a local deity and the mount of the great goddess
Palden Lhamo. For that reason the place became known as Kyang-rag (Wild Ass Beheld).
Stage 1: Nakya to the Treeline
5 hours / 18km / 480m ascent
This trail sets off from Kyang-rag Monastery and pushes up through the Kyang Valley.
From the turn-off for Nam-tso at Damxung proceed along the black-top road for 6km
passing the large horseracing stadium to the left. Turn left onto the narrow concrete road
about 1km beyond the stadium. From this turnoff the white Kyang-rag Monastery, a white
beacon on the slopes, is seemingly a stone's throw away. Reach Kyang-rag Monastery
(4370m; N 30°31.694ʹ, E 091°05.759ʹ) perched above the northeast side of the valley in
2km.
All the way to the Kyang-la the valley runs in a northwest direction. From Kyang-rag
Monastery remain on the east side of the valley heading upstream. Along the narrow val-
ley floor are plenty of small places to camp. About one hour from Kyang-rag Monastery
ford the crystal waters of the Kyang-chu to the west side of the valley and enter a narrow
rocky gorge . The gorge coincides with the high mountains that close in around the Kyang-
chu. Five more fords await, so it's a good idea to bring canvas tennis shoes or rubber san-
dals especially dedicated to this purpose. A walking stick is also very helpful. The Kyang-
chu is a fairly shallow stream but it has a swift current, so make sure your legs are up to
the task.