Tibetan Treks - Tibet - page 463

Near Jarok Donkhang a trail branches off to the southeast, leading over the snow-
covered Khando Sanglam-la. This shortcut to the east side of Mt Kailash bypasses the nor-
mal route over the Drölma-la, but only those on their auspicious 13th kora may use it. That
lion-faced goddess Dakini, who led Götsangpa to Dira-puk, makes sure of that.
Also nearby, another glacier descends from the east ridge off the north face of Mt
Kailash, down through the Pölung Valley between Chenresig (Avalokiteshvara) and
Jampelyang (Manjushri). This glacier can be reached in a return trip of a couple of hours
from Jarok Donkhang. You can follow the glacial stream that runs down the middle of the
valley to merge with the Drölma-chu, or you can avoid losing altitude from Jarok
Donkhang by terracing around the side of Jampelyang.
Only a short distance above Jarok Donkhang, about two hours from the day's starting
point, is the rocky expanse of Shiva-tsal (5330m; N 31°05.795ʹ, E 081°20.856ʹ). Pilgrims
are supposed to undergo a symbolic death at this point, entering in the realm of the Lord of
the Dead, until they reach the top of the Drölma-la and are reborn again. It is customary to
leave something behind at Shiva-tsal - an item of clothing, a drop of blood or a lock of
hair - to represent the act of leaving this life behind.
After Shiva-tsal the trail mercifully flattens for a time and proceeds along a glacial
ridge. There are a number of interesting sights ahead, such as the sin-testing stone of
Bardo Trang (a flat boulder that pilgrims are supposed to squeeze under to measure their
sinfulness), but even your guide may not know where they are.
About 30 minutes from Shiva-tsal the trail turns eastward for the final ascent. The
saddle is fairly dull looking, just a long slope of boulders and scree, but there are some
stark, jagged peaks to the right. Look south for your last glimpse of the north face of Mt
Kailash, since there are no views of the mountain from the pass.
Allow around an hour for the 200m climb to the top of the Drölma-la (5630m; N
31°05.719', E 081°22.204'). The trail disappears at times, merging with glacial streams in
summer, but the way up, up, up is obvious. Take your time. Let the children and old wo-
men pass you, and if you can't go more than a few metres at a time, then don't.
After a few false summits, the rocky pass is reached. The great cubic Drölma Do
(Drölma's Rock) that marks the top is barely visible behind an enormous number of prayer
flags. Pilgrims perform a circumambulation nonetheless, pasting money onto the rock with
yak butter, and stooping to pass under the lines of prayer flags and add a new string or two
to the collection. They also chant the Tibetan pass-crossing mantra, ' ki ki so so, lha gyalo'
(' ki ki so so' being the empowerment and happiness invocation, ' lha gyalo' meaning 'the